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Flâneurs in Paris and Berlin<br />

loftier than that of a mere flâneur, an aim more general, something other than the fugitive<br />

pleasure of circumstance. He is looking for that quality which you must allow me to call<br />

“modernity”; for I know of no better word to express the idea I have in mind. He makes<br />

it his business to extract from fashion whatever element it may contain of poetry within<br />

history, to distil the eternal from the transitory . . . By “modernity” I mean the ephemeral,<br />

the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the<br />

immutable.<br />

The flâneur treks the streets and boulevards in pursuit of the modern. He rummages<br />

among bourgeois ordinariness, encountering the modern everyday. The flâneur is<br />

a native, not a tourist, and he must live among everyday structures, for they are<br />

crucial to the flâneur’s mode of seeing. As Benjamin noted:<br />

For it is not the foreigners but they themselves, the Parisians, who have made Paris the<br />

promised land of the flâneur – the “landscape built of sheer life” as Hofmannsthal once<br />

put it. 21<br />

The flâneur does not seek out beauty or ancientness, the exotic or the picturesque<br />

– indeed such things would distract him or overwhelm his attention. He searches<br />

rather for the modern quotidian, in order then to sniff out the fantastic in the<br />

ordinary. By now though, in Baudelaire’s account, the flâneur appears to be less a<br />

man pursuing leisure, and more definitely an artist seeking material.<br />

Baudelaire’s study of Guys – which was also a self-conscious delineation of an<br />

epoch – was written for a newspaper, which is to say it was penned for money.<br />

Baudelaire is a mid-nineteenth century flâneur, and characteristic of such flânerie<br />

is the need to earn money in a more edgy, cut-throat marketplace. As the century<br />

progresses flânerie becomes less a leisure practice and more a mode of laboring,<br />

or at least turning leisure activities (walking, observing) into written copy in order<br />

to provide the material to occupy other people’s leisure time. Or, perhaps, as the<br />

fine art of flânerie declines, a more mass version of its practices develops. This<br />

was certainly the way in which the word entered Anglophone usage. Harper<br />

Magazine spoke of the flâneur in 1854, asking its audience whether they too had<br />

not wasted a couple of hours in the metropolitan city window-shopping, as they<br />

“played the flâneur.” 22 This is the flâneur as leisured type, yet also a potential<br />

consumer. In 1872 Braddon’s Life in India ascribes a more purposeful activity to<br />

flânerie, mentioning the “knowledge of London life that comes to the active<br />

regular flâneur after years of active experience.” E. Cobham Brewer’s Dictionary<br />

of Phrase and Fable of 1894 makes flâneur synonymous with a lounger or<br />

gossiper, derived from flâner, to saunter about. Websters Revised Unabridged<br />

Dictionary of 1913 underlines this, calling the flâneur “one who strolls about<br />

67

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