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Stephen Gundle<br />

but instead figure-hugging dresses; no more excessive simplicity, but rather<br />

sumptuousness, richness, eye-catching qualities, folds, straps, white, black, pearls<br />

and silver.” 41<br />

So equipped, Lollobrigida and Loren were well placed to travel abroad to<br />

promote their films and at the same time offer an image of Italian craft and fashion.<br />

In Hollywood and more widely in the United States, they would receive admiring<br />

comments for the richness and originality of their toilettes. They became objects<br />

of admiration and imitation on the part of women of a wide range of social classes<br />

the world over. At once different from and part of the star elite that defined and<br />

diffused the ideals of Hollywood glamour, they aroused interest and attracted<br />

attention.<br />

The “Dolce Vita” Connection<br />

It was not just Italian stars who traveled in the 1950s but the world that came to<br />

Rome. While the city underwent population growth and urban expansion, it also<br />

became a fashionable city, a cosmopolitan crossroads for the international elite of<br />

the rich and famous. Vast numbers of film actors, directors, and personnel acted<br />

as a magnet for hangers on, aspirant people, and movers and shakers. In addition<br />

rich playboys, idle aristocrats, and bored heiresses made it a vital point in their<br />

itinerary. Rome became a center for an international café society that in the 1960s<br />

would evolve into the jet set. This cosmopolitan crowd provided a layer of social<br />

life that the city had never had before. On top and alongside of the conventional<br />

scene, there was another made up of the rich and the beautiful. For a period, Rome<br />

became a combination of Paris and Hollywood, and certainly the place that gave<br />

rise to the most gossip and scandal. These featured in some of the mainstream press<br />

as well as the notorious scandal sheet Confidential.<br />

For foreigners Italy had always possessed glamour, in the sense that it presented<br />

an enticing image mixing beauty, sexuality, theatricality, wealth (in the form of<br />

heritage), and leisure. In the years of the “dolce vita” this was given a new twist<br />

as the wealth acquired a contemporary connotation and the beauty and sexuality<br />

were associated with fashion and film. Many of the events which appeared in the<br />

world’s press and were seen to typify the decadent hedonism of the life of the<br />

celebrity elite in Rome were not spontaneous but staged by press agents. These<br />

included in 1958 Anita Ekberg’s night-time dip in the Trevi Fountain and a<br />

celebrated impromptu striptease performed at the Rugantino nightclub by Turkish<br />

model Aiché Nana. But there were sufficient genuine conflicts between celebrities<br />

and press photographers around the Via Veneto to lend an air of authenticity to<br />

the phenomenon. Snapshots of illicit celebrity couples and of men kicking and<br />

punching photographers in the dead of night turned Rome into a center of modern<br />

352

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