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Flâneurs in Paris and Berlin<br />

and regularity is his enemy. He is a hunter in search of the unexpected, the special,<br />

the affective. For the flâneur the city is akin to what untamed nature was for the<br />

Romantic soul: a place to wander and reflect. The flâneur approaches the city as if<br />

it were a landscape. The flâneur goes “botanizing on the asphalt,” as Benjamin<br />

quips. 13 The city is a hunting ground, risky and bizarre. Gas lamps and lampposts<br />

appear as coconut palms, and the Arcade of Cairo, through its name and its<br />

emporia, imports marketable foreignness into the city. There is no Romantic<br />

sentimentality about lost nature. The city is more foreign and dangerous than the<br />

colonies or wild nature, according to Charles Baudelaire’s morbid anthropology<br />

of man as hunter:<br />

What are the perils of jungle and prairie compared to the daily shocks and conflicts of<br />

civilisation? Whether a man embraces his dupe on the boulevard, or spears his prey in<br />

unknown forests, is he not eternal man – that is to say, the most highly perfected beast<br />

of prey? 14<br />

Primitivity is spied at the heart of civilisation: the urban scene as landscape. But<br />

Walter Benjamin is keen to pinpoint the dialectical flipside of the city as wild plain,<br />

identifying in nineteenth-century accounts of Parisian life reference to the street<br />

as interior, where glossy enameled shop signs function as wall decoration,<br />

newspaper stands as libraries, mailboxes as bronze busts, café terraces as balconies<br />

and the sections of the railway tracks where rail workers hang up their jackets as<br />

vestibules. 15 This is an exploded interior, for it is not an isolated shelter for<br />

privatized domestic bliss. The flâneur is the tenant most at home in this city as<br />

house, a world turned inside-out, where privacy is sneered at in favor of the life in<br />

the mêlée:<br />

The street becomes a dwelling for the flâneur; he is as much at home among the façades<br />

of houses as a citizen is in his four walls. To him the shiny, enamelled signs of businesses<br />

are at least as good a wall ornament as an oil painting is to the bourgeois in his salon.<br />

The walls are the desk against which he presses his notebooks; news-stands are his<br />

libraries and the terraces of cafés are the balconies from which he looks down on his<br />

household after his work is done. 16<br />

To the flâneur, the city, its arcades and streets, formed a vast world in miniature,<br />

through which the flâneur could wander unaccosted: Walter Benjamin labeled the<br />

spatial sensation “now landscape, now a room.” 17 The coming of the department<br />

store provided another version of this doubled scale, being both a space that<br />

seemingly contains the whole world, an endlessly roamable landscape, varied as<br />

the jungle, and yet, at the same time, comprised of rooms, with intimate, domestic<br />

65

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