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Trade and Employment From Myths to Facts - International Labour ...

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<strong>Trade</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Employment</strong>: <strong>From</strong> <strong>Myths</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Facts</strong><br />

A recent variant on the codes of conduct approach is the Better Work programme,<br />

which is a joint initiative of the ILO <strong>and</strong> the <strong>International</strong> Finance Corporation (IFC)<br />

of the World Bank. The programme, currently being implemented in several developing<br />

countries, is based on the idea that compliance with labour st<strong>and</strong>ards is good<br />

for business. Better Work was originally implemented as the Better Fac<strong>to</strong>ries Cambodia<br />

programme, which grew out of the trade agreement negotiated between the<br />

Cambodian <strong>and</strong> US Governments in 1999. This agreement was the first <strong>to</strong> explicitly<br />

assign a moni<strong>to</strong>ring role <strong>to</strong> the ILO, as Cambodia agreed <strong>to</strong> allow the ILO <strong>to</strong> inspect<br />

its fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong> ascertain progress <strong>to</strong>ward decent working conditions, upon verification<br />

of which the United States would increase Cambodia’s export quota of garments.<br />

In the post-ATC era, when use of quotas is no longer a trade policy <strong>to</strong>ol, the<br />

programme relies on the incentive for supplier fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong> reach buyers interested in<br />

sourcing from suppliers with better working conditions. There is evidence that companies<br />

that source from developing countries attach a premium <strong>to</strong> labour st<strong>and</strong>ards<br />

moni<strong>to</strong>ring via the ILO. 18 As a result, since 2007, the Better Work programme has<br />

been extended through the partnership of the IFC <strong>and</strong> the ILO. A number of<br />

countries – Haiti, Lesotho, Jordan, Nicaragua <strong>and</strong> Viet Nam – have voluntarily entered<br />

the programme <strong>and</strong> most have required all garment fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong> participate in the<br />

programme as a condition for export.<br />

Evidence based on fac<strong>to</strong>ry inspection reports indicates that under the Better<br />

Fac<strong>to</strong>ries programme, Cambodia has achieved improvements in working conditions<br />

while at the same time increasing garment exports <strong>and</strong> employment (Polaski, 2009;<br />

Berik <strong>and</strong> Rodgers, 2010). Chief among the achievements is the correct payment of<br />

wages (minimum wage or overtime wages) in the garment sec<strong>to</strong>r, which is a major<br />

step forward, given widespread reports of non-payment or incorrect payment of wages<br />

in garment fac<strong>to</strong>ries globally.<br />

However, Cambodia’s programme does not moni<strong>to</strong>r wage growth in supplier<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>ries but only their compliance with the minimum wage law. A crucial complement<br />

for the programme <strong>to</strong> achieve sustained improvements in st<strong>and</strong>ards of living in local<br />

terms could, therefore, consist in encouraging periodic <strong>and</strong> adequate adjustments in<br />

the minimum wage <strong>and</strong> upholding of union rights so that wage growth can proceed<br />

commensurate with productivity gains. These policy goals, in turn, reinforce the need<br />

for a fac<strong>to</strong>ry-level programme such as Better Work <strong>to</strong> be well integrated with nationallevel<br />

implementation of labour laws <strong>and</strong> for the ILO’s tripartite process <strong>to</strong> work at<br />

the national level. Moreover, there may be scope for adjustments in the Better Work<br />

approach itself. For example, the identities of buyers <strong>and</strong> of fac<strong>to</strong>ries that source them<br />

could be disclosed <strong>and</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry adherence <strong>to</strong> laws regarding union rights could be<br />

more closely moni<strong>to</strong>red. Finally, <strong>to</strong> be effective in increasing wage levels <strong>and</strong> raising<br />

18 According <strong>to</strong> a 2004 World Bank survey, Cambodia’s key overseas buyers rated highly the credibility<br />

of ILO moni<strong>to</strong>ring <strong>and</strong> expressed their preference <strong>to</strong> source from Cambodia over Bangladesh,<br />

China, Thail<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Viet Nam due <strong>to</strong> the working conditions of the Cambodia’s Better Fac<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

programme (Foreign Investment Advisory Service, 2004).<br />

204

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