Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

6.7 Testing the thermostat
Ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration).
8 Heat the water and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open.
Compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open. The temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end (see illustration). Remove the
thermostat and measure the height of the fully
opened valve, then allow the thermostat to
cool down and check that it closes fully.
9 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
then it must be renewed.
Refitting
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure,
illustration):
noting the following (see
a) Clean the thermostat housing, housing
cover and cylinder block/crankcase
mating surfaces thoroughly.
b) Always fit a new housing cover gasket
and O-ring. Smear the O-ring with grease
to aid refitting.
c) Tighten all bolts to their specified torque
wrench settings (where given).
d) Ensure the coolant hose clips are
positioned so that they do not foul any
other component, then tighten them
securely.
e) Refit any components removed for
improved access.
f) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
7.5 Removing the coolant pump
6.8 Note temperature specification
stamped on thermostat end
7 Coolant pump -
removal and refitting 4
Removal
1 Coolant pump failure is usually indicated by
coolant leaking from the gland behind the
pump bearing, or by rough and noisy
operation, usually accompanied by excessive
pump spindle play. If the pump shows any of
these symptoms then it must be renewed as
follows.
2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the timing belt.
4 Noting the location of the pillar bolt(s),
unscrew the five bolts securing the coolant
pump to the cylinder block/crankcase, then
unscrew the single bolt securing the pump to
the timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover.
5 Withdraw the coolant pump and discard its
sealing ring which should be renewed
whenever it is disturbed. Carefully clean the
cylinder block/crankcase mating surface and
the pump socket (see illustration).
Refitting
6 On refitting, install the pump using a new
sealing ring and tighten all bolts to the
specified torque wrench settings.
7 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.
8 Electric cooling fan -
testing, removal and refitting 2
Note: On models equipped with air
conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is the cooling fan switch.
Testing
1 The cooling fan motor is supplied with
current via the ignition switch, fuse 4 and the
cooling fan relay. The relay is energised by the
radiator-mounted thermostatic switch which
is fed via fuse number 15.
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
6.10 Thermostat housing and coolant
hoses refitted
2 If the fan does not appear to work, first
check that both fuses are in good condition
and have not blown. Run the engine until
normal operating temperature is reached,
then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut in
within a few minutes, switch off the ignition
and disconnect the two wires from the
thermostatic switch. Bridge these two wires
with a length of spare wire and switch on the
ignition. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is probably faulty and
must be tested further as described in
Section 9.
3 If the fan still fails to operate, check that full
battery voltage is available at the switch’s
light green and grey wire terminal. If not,
check the feed for a blown fuse or other fault
such as a broken wire. If the feed is good,
check the cooling fan relay, see Chapter 12. If
the relay operates correctly, check for
continuity between the fan motor black wire
terminal and a good earth point on the body. If
not, then the earth connection is faulty and
must be remade. The circuit earth connection
is one of those at earth header 1, attached to
the left-hand inner wing panel next to the
battery.
4 If the switch and wiring are in good
condition, the fault must be in the motor itself.
This can be checked by disconnecting it from
the wiring loom and connecting a 12 volt
supply directly to it. If the motor does not
work then it must be renewed.
Removal
5 Drain the cooling system, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
7 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
8 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine. Position the hose clear of the radiator
so that it does not hinder removal.
9 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector.
3