Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

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5C•2 Starting and charging systems 1 General information and precautions General information The electrical system is of the 12 volt negative earth type and comprises a 12 volt battery, alternator with integral voltage regulator, starter motor and related electrical accessories, components and wiring. The battery is charged by an alternator which is belt-driven. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel. Precautions It is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual, take note of the following points when working on the system. Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitive discharge could occur if a component live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator or any other having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged. If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. This also applies when connecting a battery charger. Always ensure that the battery negative lead is disconnected when working on the electrical system. Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator when the alternator is not connected. Never test for alternator output by ‘flashing’ the output lead to earth. Never disconnect the battery terminals, or alternator multi-plug connector, when the engine is running. The battery leads and alternator multi-plug must be disconnected before carrying out any electric welding on the vehicle. Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing. 2 Battery - maintenance Refer to Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”. 3 Battery - testing and charging 2 Warning: Specially rapid ‘boost’ charges which are claimed to restore the power of a battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating. Warning: During battery electrolyte replenishment, never add water to sulphuric acid otherwise it will explode. Always pour the acid slowly onto the water. Warning: The battery will be emitting significant quantities of highly inflammable hydrogen gas during charging and for approximately 15 minutes afterwards. Do not allow sparks or naked flames near the battery or it may explode. Testing 1 In normal use, the battery should not require charging from an external source unless very heavy use is made of electrical equipment over a series of journeys that are too short to allow the charging system to keep pace with demand. Otherwise, a need for regular recharging points to a fault either in the battery or in the charging system. 2 If the vehicle is laid up for long periods (in excess of thirty days at a time) the battery will lose approximately 1% of its charge per week. This figure is for a disconnected battery. If the battery is left connected, circuits such as the clock (where fitted) will drain it at a faster rate. To prevent this happening, always disconnect the battery negative lead whenever the vehicle is to be laid up for a long period. To keep the battery fully charged, it should be given regular ‘refresher’ charges every six weeks or so. This is particularly important on ‘maintenance-free’ batteries, which will suffer permanent reduction of charge capacity if allowed to become fully discharged. 3 If a discharged battery is suspected, the simplest test for most owners is as follows. Leave the battery disconnected for at least two hours, then measure the (open circuit, or no-load) voltage using a sensitive voltmeter connected across the battery terminals. Compare the reading obtained with the following: Voltmeter reading Charge condition 0.50 volts Fully discharged - battery scrap 12.30 volts 50% charged 12.48 volts 75% charged 12.66 volts or more Fully charged 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 4 If frequent topping-up is required and the battery case is not fractured, then the battery is being over-charged and the voltage regulator will have to be checked. 5 If the vehicle covers a very small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table: Normal climates Tropics Discharged 1.120 1.080 Half charged 1.200 1.160 Fully charged 1.280 1.230 6 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 7 A further test can be made only by a battery specialist using a battery heavy discharge meter. Alternatively, connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and operate the starter motor with the ignition coil HT lead disconnected from the distributor and earthed, and with the headlamps, heated rear window and heater blower switched on. If the voltmeter reading remains above approximately 9.5 volts, the battery condition is satisfactory. If the voltmeter reading drops below 9.5 volts and the battery has already been charged, it is proven faulty. Charging 8 In winter when heavy demand is placed on the battery (starting from cold and using more electrical equipment), it is a good idea occasionally to have the battery fully charged from an external source. The battery’s bench charge rate depends on its code (see a Rover dealer or Lucas agent for details). For most owners, the best method will be to use a trickle-charger overnight, charging at a rate of 1.5 amps. Rapid ‘boost’ charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating and may cause a sealed battery to explode. 9 Ideally, the battery should be removed from the vehicle before charging and moved to a well-ventilated area. As a minimum precaution, both battery terminal leads must be disconnected (negative lead first) before connecting the charger leads. 10 Continue to charge the battery until all cells are gassing vigorously and no further rise in specific gravity or increase in no-load voltage is noted over a four-hour period. When charging is complete, turn the charger off before disconnecting the leads from the battery.
4.4 Battery clamp bolt 4 Battery - removal and refitting 1 Removal 1 First check that all electrical components are switched off to avoid a spark occurring as the negative lead is disconnected. If the radio/cassette unit has a security code, deactivate the code temporarily and re-activate it when the battery is re-connected. Refer to the instructions and code supplied with the unit. 2 Slacken the terminal clamp nut then lift the clamp and negative (–) lead from the terminal. This is the terminal to disconnect before working on any electrical component on the vehicle. If the terminal is tight, carefully ease it off by moving it from side to side. 3 Raise the plastic cover from the positive (+) terminal clamp and slacken the clamp nut, then lift the clamp and lead from the terminal. 4 Unscrew the clamp bolt and remove the clamp from the battery tray (see illustration). 5 Lift the battery from the tray, keeping it upright and taking care not to allow it to contact your clothing. 6 If the battery tray is to be removed, first release any relevant wiring harness clips from the tray. Unscrew the six bolts securing the battery tray in position and remove the tray. If necessary, undo the two bolts securing the battery tray mounting bracket to the body and remove the bracket (see illustrations). 7 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps, tray and battery casing. If the bodywork is rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint. 8 Whenever the battery is removed, check it for cracks and leakage. Refitting 9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the terminal posts and leads are cleaned before re-connection. Smear petroleum jelly on the terminals after reconnecting the leads. Always connect the positive terminal clamp first and the negative terminal clamp last. 4.6a Battery tray retaining bolts (arrowed) 5 Charging system - testing 2 1 If the ignition warning lamp fails to light when the ignition is switched on, first check the alternator wiring connections for security. If satisfactory, check that the warning lamp bulb has not blown and is secure in its holder. If the lamp still fails to light, check the continuity of the warning lamp feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 2 If the ignition warning lamp lights when the engine is running, stop the engine and check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned and that the alternator connections are secure. If all is satisfactory, check the alternator brushes and commutator. If the fault persists, the alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 3 If the alternator output is suspect, even though the warning lamp functions correctly, the regulated voltage may be checked as follows. 4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and start the engine. 5 Increase engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady. This should be approximately 12 to 13 volts and no more than 14 volts. 6 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg: the headlamps, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. 7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding or a worn or damaged commutator. The brushes and commutator may be checked but if the fault persists, the alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 Starting and charging systems 5C•3 4.6b Battery tray mounting bracket retaining bolts (viewed from underneath) 6 Alternator drivebelt - inspection, adjustment and renewal Refer to Chapter 1. 7 Alternator brush holder and voltage regulator - renewal 3 Note: The vast majority of actual alternator faults are due to the voltage regulator or brushes being defective. If the renewal of either assembly does not cure the fault, then the advice of an expert should be sought. For most owners, the best course of action will be to renew the alternator as a complete unit. In many cases, overhaul will not be viable on economic grounds alone. Removal 1 While it is physically possible to remove the voltage regulator and brush holder assembly with the alternator in place on the vehicle, owners are advised to remove the alternator so that it can be serviced in clean working conditions. 2 Unscrew the screws securing the voltage regulator and brush holder assembly to the alternator. Lift off the regulator/brush holder, disconnect the electrical lead and remove the regulator/brush holder from the alternator (see illustration). 7.2 Remove voltage regulator/brush holder from alternator and disconnect wiring lead 5C
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Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair
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REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Ass
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Working on your car can be dangerou
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Jump starting will get you out of t
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Puddles on the garage floor or driv
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Engine oil level Before you start 4
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Power steering fluid level Before y
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Electrical system 4 Check all exter
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Chapter 2 Part A Engine in-car repa
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Valves Seat angle: Inlet . . . . .
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The crankshaft runs in five main be
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5.14 Cylinder head cover bolt tight
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8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned
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1 Timing belt upper righthand (oute
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9.39 Ensure timing belt tensioner s
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11.9 Secure partly-removed timing b
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12 Valve clearances - general infor
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tightens each bolt through half a t
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16.12 Oil pump outer rotor outside
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front of the vehicle and support it
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2B•2 Engine removal and general o
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2B•10 Engine removal and general
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Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and vent
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4 Cooling system hoses - renewal 2
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6.7 Testing the thermostat Ensure t
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9.10 Inlet manifold pre-heater temp
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10.5b . . . and disengage duct from
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10.20d Remove fan retaining nut . .
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17 Working from inside the vehicle,
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3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilat
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3•10 Cooling, heating and ventila
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3•12 Cooling, heating and ventila
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Chapter 4 Part A Fuel and exhaust s
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3.4 Slacken clamp to disconnect int
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8.3 Removing cover retaining bolt (
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port with a wad of clean cloth to p
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Page 95 and 96: Chapter 4 Part B Fuel and exhaust s
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Page 99 and 100: 6.7 Slackening pressure release bol
Page 101 and 102: 15.1 Disconnecting fuel feed and re
Page 103 and 104: 15.26 Absolute pressure sensor fuel
Page 105 and 106: 18 Exhaust manifold - removal and r
Page 107 and 108: 4C•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - m
Page 115 and 116: Chapter 4 Part D Emission control s
Page 117 and 118: 3.8 Disconnecting multiplug from pu
Page 119 and 120: Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and vent
Page 121 and 122: 4 Cooling system hoses - renewal 2
Page 123 and 124: 6.7 Testing the thermostat Ensure t
Page 125 and 126: 9.10 Inlet manifold pre-heater temp
Page 127 and 128: 10.5b . . . and disengage duct from
Page 129 and 130: 10.20d Remove fan retaining nut . .
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Page 133 and 134: 5A•2 Ignition system - carburetto
Page 139 and 140: 5B•2 Ignition system - fuel injec
Page 141: Chapter 5 Part C Starting and charg
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Page 147 and 148: 11.14 Unscrew nut and disconnect st
Page 149 and 150: 9•2 Braking system Rear brakes No
Page 151 and 152: 9•4 Braking system shut down and
Page 153 and 154: 9•6 Braking system 6.21 Using a o
Page 155 and 156: 9•8 Braking system piston in as f
Page 157 and 158: 9•10 Braking system the caliper p
Page 159 and 160: 9•12 Braking system 1 Brake drum
Page 161 and 162: 9•14 Braking system 18.3 Wheel cy
Page 163 and 164: 9•16 Braking system 15 Inspect al
Page 165 and 166: 9•18 Braking system 1 Servo unit
Page 167 and 168: 10•2 Suspension and steering Whee
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Page 171 and 172: 10•6 Suspension and steering 5.4
Page 173 and 174: 10•8 Suspension and steering 9.4
Page 175 and 176: 10•10 Suspension and steering 11.
Page 177 and 178: 10•12 Suspension and steering 8 R
Page 181 and 182: 10•16 Suspension and steering 1 H
Page 187 and 188: Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
Page 189 and 190: 1 General information and precautio
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4.22 Driver’s side window switch
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5.20b Rear cluster tail lamp bulb i
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16 Refitting is a reversal of the r
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13.2a Carefully prise out clock mou
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16.7 Disconnect Lucar connection an
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21.5 Removing tailgate washer jet -
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24.3a Use DIN tools to release reta
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Key to wiring diagrams (continued)
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1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Versio
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Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

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