Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

2B•8 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
push the connecting rod up and off the
crankpin, ensuring that the connecting rod
big-ends do not mark the cylinder bore walls,
then remove the upper bearing shell. Keep the
cap, bolts and (if they are to be refitted) the
bearing shells together in their correct
sequence.
11 With Nos 2 and 3 cylinder big-ends
disconnected, repeat the procedure
(exercising great care to prevent damage to
any of the components) to remove Nos 1 and
4 cylinder bearing caps.
12 Remove the ridge of carbon from the top
of each cylinder bore. Push each
piston/connecting rod assembly up and
remove it from the top of the bore, and ensure
that the connecting rod big-ends do not mark
the cylinder bore walls.
13 Note that the number stamped by you on
each bearing cap should match the cylinder
number stamped on the front (alternator
bracket side) of each connecting rod. If any
connecting rod number does not match its
correct cylinder, mark or label it immediately
so that each piston/connecting rod assembly
can be refitted to its original bore.
Fit the bearing cap, shells
and bolts to each removed
piston/connecting rod
assembly, so that they are
all kept together as a
matched set.
Removal - alternative methods
14 If the engine is being completely
dismantled and the cylinder head has been
removed, either unbolt the main bearing
ladder so that the crankshaft can be rotated
with care, or remove the crankshaft
completely and then remove the connecting
rods and pistons.
Cylinder head bolts - condition
check
15 Check the condition of the cylinder head
10.8a Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolt
slackening sequence
A Bolts hidden in ladder flanges
B Location of single longer bolt
9.16 Checking length of cylinder head
bolts
bolts and particularly their threads whenever
they are removed. If the cylinder head only is
removed, check the bolts as described in
Part A of this Chapter. If the cylinder
head and the oil rail are removed, check as
follows.
16 Keeping all the bolts in their correct fitted
order, wash them and wipe dry, then check
each for any sign of visible wear or damage.
Renew any bolt if necessary. Lightly oil the
threads of each bolt, carefully enter it into the
original hole and screw it in, by hand only until
finger-tight. If the full length of thread is
engaged, the bolt may be re-used. If the
full length of thread is not engaged, measure
the distance from the oil rail gasket surface to
under the bolt head (see illustration).
17 If the distance measured is less than 378
mm, then the bolt may be re-used. If the
distance measured is more than 378 mm, the
bolt must be renewed. Considering the task
these bolts perform and the pressures they
must withstand, owners should consider
renewing all the bolts as a matched set if
more than one of the originals fail inspection
or are close to the limit set.
18 Note that if any of the cylinder head bolt
threads in the oil rail are found to be
damaged, then the oil rail must be renewed.
Thread inserts are not an acceptable repair in
this instance.
10.8b Removing main bearing ladder (two
locating dowels arrowed)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
10 Crankshaft - removal
4
Note: The following procedure assumes that
the crankshaft alone is being removed and
therefore uses a slightly different sequence of
operations to that given in Section 9.
Depending on the reason for dismantling,
either sequence may be adapted as
necessary. If the crankshaft endfloat is to be
checked, this must be done when the
crankshaft is free to move. If a dial gauge is to
be used, check after paragraph 1, but if feeler
gauges are to be used, check after paragraph
9.
1 Remove the timing belt, sprocket(s)
and tensioner, and the timing belt inner
cover.
2 Slacken and remove the two dipstick tube
retaining bolts and remove it from the cylinder
block/crankcase.
3 Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaft
cannot now be rotated.
4 Remove the oil pump.
5 Remove the crankshaft left-hand oil seal.
6 Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring.
7 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail.
8 Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively unscrew the main
bearing ladder retaining bolts by a turn at a
time, then withdraw the ladder. Note the two
locating dowels and the main bearing shells,
which should be removed from the ladder and
stored in their correct fitted order (see
illustration).
9 Mark the big-end bearing caps, then
unscrew and remove the big-end bearing cap
bolts and withdraw the cap, complete with the
lower bearing shell, from each of the four
connecting rods (see illustration). Push
the connecting rods up and off their
crankpins, then remove the upper bearing
shell. Keep the cap, bolts and (if they are to be
refitted) the bearing shells together in their
correct sequence.
10.9 Removing No 1 cylinder big-end
bearing cap and lower bearing shell