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Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

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9 Starting system - testing<br />

2<br />

1 If the starter motor fails to operate when the<br />

switch is operated, the following may be the<br />

cause:<br />

a) The battery is faulty.<br />

b) The electrical connections between the<br />

ignition switch, solenoid, battery <strong>and</strong><br />

starter motor are somewhere failing to<br />

pass the necessary current from the<br />

battery through the starter to earth.<br />

c) The solenoid is faulty.<br />

d) The starter relay is faulty.<br />

e) The starter motor is mechanically or<br />

electrically defective.<br />

2 To check the battery, switch on the<br />

headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds<br />

then the battery is discharged. Recharge or<br />

renew the battery. If the lamps glow brightly,<br />

operate the ignition switch <strong>and</strong> see what<br />

happens to the lamps. If they dim, then you<br />

know that power is reaching the starter motor,<br />

therefore the motor must be removed <strong>and</strong><br />

renewed or overhauled to cure the fault. If the<br />

lamps stay bright (<strong>and</strong> no clicking sound can<br />

be heard from the solenoid), there is a fault in<br />

the circuit or solenoid. If the starter turns<br />

slowly when switched on, but the battery is in<br />

good condition, then either the starter must<br />

be faulty or there is considerable resistance in<br />

the circuit.<br />

10.4 Starter solenoid main terminal nut (A)<br />

<strong>and</strong> spade connector (B)<br />

10.6a Starter motor lower mounting bolts<br />

viewed from underneath<br />

3 If the circuit is suspected, disconnect the<br />

battery terminals (including the earth<br />

connection to the body), the starter/solenoid<br />

wiring <strong>and</strong> the engine/gearbox unit earth lead,<br />

thoroughly clean their connections <strong>and</strong> refit<br />

them, then use a meter or test lamp to check<br />

that full battery voltage is available at the<br />

solenoid terminal of the battery positive lead<br />

<strong>and</strong> that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum<br />

jelly around the battery terminals to prevent<br />

corrosion. Corroded connections are the most<br />

frequent cause of electrical system<br />

malfunctions.<br />

4 If the battery <strong>and</strong> all connections are in<br />

good condition, check the circuit first by<br />

disconnecting the wire from the solenoid<br />

blade terminal. Connect a meter or test lamp<br />

between the wire end <strong>and</strong> the terminal <strong>and</strong><br />

check that the wire is live when the ignition<br />

switch is operated. If it is, then the circuit is<br />

sound. If not, proceed to paragraph 7.<br />

5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by<br />

putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the<br />

main cable connection on the starter side of<br />

the solenoid <strong>and</strong> earth. When the switch is<br />

operated, there should be a reading or<br />

lighted bulb. If there is no reading or lighted<br />

bulb, the solenoid is faulty <strong>and</strong> should be<br />

renewed.<br />

6 If the circuit <strong>and</strong> solenoid are proved<br />

sound, the fault must be in the starter motor.<br />

Remove the motor <strong>and</strong> check its brushes. If<br />

the fault does not lie in the brushes, the motor<br />

windings must be faulty. In this event, the<br />

10.5 Starter motor support bracket-togearbox<br />

bolts<br />

10.6b Starter motor upper mounting bolt<br />

<strong>and</strong> earth strap (arrowed) - viewed from<br />

above<br />

1689 <strong>Rover</strong> <strong>214</strong> & <strong>414</strong> Updated Version 09/97<br />

Starting <strong>and</strong> charging systems 5C•5<br />

motor must be renewed, unless an autoelectrical<br />

specialist can be found who will<br />

overhaul the unit at a cost significantly less<br />

than that of a new or exchange starter motor.<br />

7 If the circuit is thought to be faulty, first<br />

check the starter relay which is situated in the<br />

engine compartment fusebox. A simple test is<br />

to temporarily replace it with one of the other<br />

relays from the fusebox, such as the<br />

cooling fan relay, which is known to be in a<br />

good condition. If this resolves the fault, then<br />

the starter relay is faulty <strong>and</strong> must be<br />

renewed. If not, check the ignition switch <strong>and</strong><br />

wiring.<br />

10 Starter motor -<br />

removal <strong>and</strong> refitting 2<br />

Removal<br />

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.<br />

2 Firmly apply the h<strong>and</strong>brake then jack up the<br />

front of the vehicle <strong>and</strong> support it on axle<br />

st<strong>and</strong>s. Remove the right-h<strong>and</strong> front<br />

roadwheel.<br />

3 From underneath the front of the vehicle,<br />

slacken <strong>and</strong> remove the three bolts securing<br />

the bumper flange to the body. Remove<br />

the seven bolts securing the front<br />

undercover panel to the body <strong>and</strong> remove the<br />

panel.<br />

4 Undo the nut <strong>and</strong> disconnect the battery<br />

cable from the main solenoid terminal.<br />

Carefully disconnect the spade connector<br />

from the solenoid (see illustration).<br />

5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter<br />

motor support bracket to the gearbox (see<br />

illustration).<br />

6 Slacken <strong>and</strong> remove the three starter motor<br />

mounting bolts, noting the earth strap which is<br />

fitted to the upper bolt, <strong>and</strong> manoeuvre the<br />

starter motor out from underneath the vehicle<br />

(see illustrations).<br />

Refitting<br />

7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal<br />

sequence, tightening all nuts <strong>and</strong> bolts to their<br />

specified torque settings.<br />

10.6c Removing the starter motor<br />

5C

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