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Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

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3•6 Cooling, heating <strong>and</strong> ventilation systems<br />

8.10a Undo cooling fan cowling retaining<br />

nuts (2 arrowed) . . .<br />

10 Undo the four nuts securing the cooling<br />

fan cowling to the rear of the radiator <strong>and</strong><br />

manoeuvre the fan assembly out of the engine<br />

compartment (see illustrations).<br />

11 To dismantle the assembly, first prise off<br />

the fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off the<br />

motor spindle. Undo the three nuts which<br />

secure the motor assembly to the cowling<br />

then release the motor wiring <strong>and</strong> connector<br />

<strong>and</strong> separate the motor <strong>and</strong> cowling (see<br />

illustration).<br />

Refitting<br />

12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal<br />

procedure, noting the following:<br />

a) If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,<br />

cowling <strong>and</strong> fan, then tighten the motor<br />

retaining nuts to the specified torque.<br />

Ensure that the motor wiring is securely<br />

retained by the cowling clips.<br />

b) Ensure that the radiator hose is securely<br />

held by its retaining clips.<br />

c) On completion, refill the cooling system<br />

as described in Chapter 1.<br />

9 Cooling system electrical<br />

switches - testing, removal<br />

<strong>and</strong> refitting<br />

2<br />

Note: On models equipped with air<br />

conditioning, there are two switches fitted to<br />

the right-h<strong>and</strong> side of the radiator, the lower of<br />

these is the cooling fan switch.<br />

Testing<br />

Cooling fan thermostatic switch<br />

1 Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick test<br />

which should eliminate most faulty switches.<br />

If the switch is to be renewed, or to be tested<br />

thoroughly, it must be removed.<br />

2 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,<br />

use two spare wires to connect to it either a<br />

multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a<br />

battery <strong>and</strong> bulb test circuit. Suspend the<br />

switch in a pan of water which is being<br />

heated. Measure the temperature of the water<br />

with a thermometer. Do not let either the<br />

switch or the thermometer touch the pan itself<br />

(see illustration).<br />

8.10b . . . <strong>and</strong> remove fan assembly<br />

3 The switch contacts should close to the ON<br />

position (ie: continuity should exist) when the<br />

water reaches the temperature specified.<br />

Stop heating the water <strong>and</strong> allow it to cool<br />

down. The switch contacts should open.<br />

4 If the switch’s performance is significantly<br />

different from that specified, or if it does not<br />

work at all, then it must be renewed.<br />

Coolant temperature gauge sender<br />

unit<br />

5 The coolant temperature gauge mounted in<br />

the instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10<br />

volt supply from the instrument panel feed (via<br />

the ignition switch <strong>and</strong> fuse 1), its earth being<br />

controlled by the sender unit.<br />

6 The sender unit is screwed into the coolant<br />

outlet elbow mounted on the left-h<strong>and</strong> end of<br />

the cylinder head, underneath the distributor<br />

(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,<br />

which is an element whose electrical<br />

resistance decreases at a predetermined rate<br />

as its temperature rises. Thus, when the<br />

coolant is cold, the sender’s resistance is<br />

high, current flow through the gauge is<br />

reduced <strong>and</strong> the gauge needle points to the<br />

C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty it<br />

must be renewed.<br />

9.2 Testing cooling system electrical<br />

switch<br />

1689 <strong>Rover</strong> <strong>214</strong> & <strong>414</strong> Updated Version 09/97<br />

8.11 Cooling fan motor retaining nuts<br />

(arrowed)<br />

7 If the gauge develops a fault, check first the<br />

other instruments. If they do not work at all,<br />

check the instrument panel feed. If the<br />

readings are erratic, there may be a fault in the<br />

voltage stabiliser which will necessitate the<br />

renewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. If<br />

the fault is in the temperature gauge alone,<br />

check it as follows.<br />

8 If the gauge needle remains at the C end of<br />

the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire <strong>and</strong><br />

earth it to the cylinder head. If the needle then<br />

deflects when the ignition is switched on, then<br />

the sender unit is proven faulty <strong>and</strong> must be<br />

renewed. If the needle still does not move,<br />

remove the instrument panel <strong>and</strong> check the<br />

continuity of the green/blue wire between the<br />

gauge <strong>and</strong> the sender unit <strong>and</strong> the feed to<br />

the gauge unit. If continuity is shown <strong>and</strong> the<br />

fault still exists, then the gauge is faulty <strong>and</strong><br />

the gauge unit must be renewed.<br />

9 If the gauge needle remains at the H end of<br />

the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. If<br />

the needle then returns to the C end of the<br />

scale when the ignition is switched on, then<br />

the sender unit is proven faulty <strong>and</strong> must be<br />

renewed. If the needle still does not move,<br />

check the remainder of the circuit as<br />

described above.<br />

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature<br />

switch - carburettor engines<br />

10 The switch screwed into the underside of<br />

the inlet manifold on carburettor engines<br />

9.6 Coolant temperature gauge sender<br />

unit

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