Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club
Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club
Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club
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3•6 Cooling, heating <strong>and</strong> ventilation systems<br />
8.10a Undo cooling fan cowling retaining<br />
nuts (2 arrowed) . . .<br />
10 Undo the four nuts securing the cooling<br />
fan cowling to the rear of the radiator <strong>and</strong><br />
manoeuvre the fan assembly out of the engine<br />
compartment (see illustrations).<br />
11 To dismantle the assembly, first prise off<br />
the fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off the<br />
motor spindle. Undo the three nuts which<br />
secure the motor assembly to the cowling<br />
then release the motor wiring <strong>and</strong> connector<br />
<strong>and</strong> separate the motor <strong>and</strong> cowling (see<br />
illustration).<br />
Refitting<br />
12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal<br />
procedure, noting the following:<br />
a) If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,<br />
cowling <strong>and</strong> fan, then tighten the motor<br />
retaining nuts to the specified torque.<br />
Ensure that the motor wiring is securely<br />
retained by the cowling clips.<br />
b) Ensure that the radiator hose is securely<br />
held by its retaining clips.<br />
c) On completion, refill the cooling system<br />
as described in Chapter 1.<br />
9 Cooling system electrical<br />
switches - testing, removal<br />
<strong>and</strong> refitting<br />
2<br />
Note: On models equipped with air<br />
conditioning, there are two switches fitted to<br />
the right-h<strong>and</strong> side of the radiator, the lower of<br />
these is the cooling fan switch.<br />
Testing<br />
Cooling fan thermostatic switch<br />
1 Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick test<br />
which should eliminate most faulty switches.<br />
If the switch is to be renewed, or to be tested<br />
thoroughly, it must be removed.<br />
2 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,<br />
use two spare wires to connect to it either a<br />
multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a<br />
battery <strong>and</strong> bulb test circuit. Suspend the<br />
switch in a pan of water which is being<br />
heated. Measure the temperature of the water<br />
with a thermometer. Do not let either the<br />
switch or the thermometer touch the pan itself<br />
(see illustration).<br />
8.10b . . . <strong>and</strong> remove fan assembly<br />
3 The switch contacts should close to the ON<br />
position (ie: continuity should exist) when the<br />
water reaches the temperature specified.<br />
Stop heating the water <strong>and</strong> allow it to cool<br />
down. The switch contacts should open.<br />
4 If the switch’s performance is significantly<br />
different from that specified, or if it does not<br />
work at all, then it must be renewed.<br />
Coolant temperature gauge sender<br />
unit<br />
5 The coolant temperature gauge mounted in<br />
the instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10<br />
volt supply from the instrument panel feed (via<br />
the ignition switch <strong>and</strong> fuse 1), its earth being<br />
controlled by the sender unit.<br />
6 The sender unit is screwed into the coolant<br />
outlet elbow mounted on the left-h<strong>and</strong> end of<br />
the cylinder head, underneath the distributor<br />
(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,<br />
which is an element whose electrical<br />
resistance decreases at a predetermined rate<br />
as its temperature rises. Thus, when the<br />
coolant is cold, the sender’s resistance is<br />
high, current flow through the gauge is<br />
reduced <strong>and</strong> the gauge needle points to the<br />
C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty it<br />
must be renewed.<br />
9.2 Testing cooling system electrical<br />
switch<br />
1689 <strong>Rover</strong> <strong>214</strong> & <strong>414</strong> Updated Version 09/97<br />
8.11 Cooling fan motor retaining nuts<br />
(arrowed)<br />
7 If the gauge develops a fault, check first the<br />
other instruments. If they do not work at all,<br />
check the instrument panel feed. If the<br />
readings are erratic, there may be a fault in the<br />
voltage stabiliser which will necessitate the<br />
renewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. If<br />
the fault is in the temperature gauge alone,<br />
check it as follows.<br />
8 If the gauge needle remains at the C end of<br />
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire <strong>and</strong><br />
earth it to the cylinder head. If the needle then<br />
deflects when the ignition is switched on, then<br />
the sender unit is proven faulty <strong>and</strong> must be<br />
renewed. If the needle still does not move,<br />
remove the instrument panel <strong>and</strong> check the<br />
continuity of the green/blue wire between the<br />
gauge <strong>and</strong> the sender unit <strong>and</strong> the feed to<br />
the gauge unit. If continuity is shown <strong>and</strong> the<br />
fault still exists, then the gauge is faulty <strong>and</strong><br />
the gauge unit must be renewed.<br />
9 If the gauge needle remains at the H end of<br />
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. If<br />
the needle then returns to the C end of the<br />
scale when the ignition is switched on, then<br />
the sender unit is proven faulty <strong>and</strong> must be<br />
renewed. If the needle still does not move,<br />
check the remainder of the circuit as<br />
described above.<br />
Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature<br />
switch - carburettor engines<br />
10 The switch screwed into the underside of<br />
the inlet manifold on carburettor engines<br />
9.6 Coolant temperature gauge sender<br />
unit