Rover 214 & 414 Service and Repair Manual - Rover club

16.12 Oil pump outer rotor outside face
identifying mark (arrowed)
ensuring that the outer rotor’s identification
mark faces outwards (see illustration).
13 Fit a new sealing ring to the pump body
and refit the cover plate. Apply thread-locking
compound to the threads of the cover plate
Torx screws and tighten them securely.
14 Check that the pump rotates freely, then
prime it by injecting oil into its passages and
rotating it. If a long time elapses before the
pump is refitted to the engine, prime it again
before installation.
15 Refit the oil pressure relief valve plunger,
ensuring that it is the correct way up, then
install the spring. Fit a new sealing washer to
the threaded plug and tighten the plug
securely.
17 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal 4
Right-hand seal
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
secure the timing belt clear of the working
area so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Use either grease or a thin layer of insulating
tape to protect the seal lips from the edges of
the crankshaft flats but be careful to remove
all traces of tape and to lubricate the seal lips
if the second method is used. Note that the
seal lips should face inwards.
5 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket.
Left-hand seal
6 Remove the flywheel.
18.2 Using fabricated tool to lock flywheel
in position
7 Taking care not to mark either the
crankshaft or any part of the cylinder
block/crankcase, lever the seal evenly out of
its housing.
8 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
9 Lubricate with grease the lips of the new
seal and the crankshaft shoulder, then offer
up the seal to the cylinder block/crankcase.
10 Ease the sealing lip of the seal over the
crankshaft shoulder by hand only, then press
the seal evenly into its housing until its outer
flange seats evenly on the housing lip. If
necessary, a soft-faced mallet can be used to
tap the seal gently into place.
11 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel.
18 Flywheel - removal,
inspection and refitting 5
Removal
1 Remove the gearbox and the clutch
assembly.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth (see illustration) or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts and discard them The bolts must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy.
Inspection
5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, then the flywheel must be renewed,
unless it is possible to have it surface ground.
Seek the advice of a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, then it must be renewed. This job is
best left to a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist. The temperature to
which the new ring gear must be heated for
installation (350°C - shown by an even light
blue colour) is critical and, if not done
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•21
accurately, the hardness of the teeth will be
destroyed.
7 Examine the reluctor ring (fitted to the rear
of the flywheel) for signs of damage and
check that it is securely fastened by the two
retaining screws. If the reluctor ring is
damaged, then it must be renewed.
Refitting
8 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Clean any remaining adhesive
from the threads of the crankshaft threaded
holes by making two saw cuts at opposite
points along the (carefully-cleaned) threads of
one of the original flywheel bolts and screwing
it into each hole in turn. Do not use a tap to
clean the threads in this way.
9 Position the flywheel over the crankshaft’s
locating dowel, press it into place and fit six
new bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, then tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
11 Refit the clutch, then remove the locking
tool and refit the gearbox.
19 Engine/gearbox mountings -
inspection and renewal 2
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point. Renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all mounting fasteners are
securely tightened. Use a torque wrench to
check, if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an
assistant to move the engine/gearbox unit
back and forth or from side to side while
you watch the mounting. While some free play
is to be expected even from new
components, excessive wear should be
obvious. If excessive free play is found, check
first that the fasteners are correctly secured,
then renew any worn components as
described below.
Renewal
Right-hand mounting
5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 To improve access to the mounting,
remove the expansion tank mounting bolts
then free the coolant hose from any relevant
retaining clips and position the tank clear of
the engine. On models equipped with powerassisted
steering, undo all the power steering
hose retaining clamp bolts then slide the fluid
2A