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nces of my inner, midnight given life.<br />

Yes, that was where it happened, in the palace of the widows on the shores<br />

of the Ganges in the oldest living city in the world, the city which was<br />

already old when the Buddha was young, Kasi Benares Varanasi, City of Divi<br />

ne Light, home of the Prophetic Book, the horoscope of horoscopes, in whic<br />

h every life, past present future, is already recorded. The goddess Ganga<br />

streamed down to earth through Shiva's hair… Benares, the shrine to Shiva<br />

the god, was where I was brought by hero Shiva to face my fate. In the hom<br />

e of horoscopes, I reached the moment prophesied in a rooftop room by Ramr<br />

am Seth: 'soldiers will try him… tyrants will fry him!' the fortune teller<br />

had chanted; well, there was no formal trial Shiva knees wrapped around m<br />

y neck, and that was that but I did smell, one winter's day, the odours of<br />

something frying in an iron skillet…<br />

Follow the river, past Scindia ghat on which young gymnasts in white loincl<br />

oths perform one armed push ups, past Manikarnika ghat, the place of funera<br />

ls, at which holy fire can be purchased from the keepers of the flame, past<br />

floating carcasses of dogs and cows unfortunates for whom no fire was boug<br />

ht, past Brahmins under straw umbrellas at Dasashwamedh ghat, dressed in sa<br />

ffron, dispensing blessings… and now it becomes audible, a strange sound, l<br />

ike the baying of distant hounds… follow follow follow the sound, and it ta<br />

kes shape, you understand that it is a mighty, ceaseless wailing, emanating<br />

from the blinded windows of a riverside palace: the Widows' Hostel! Once u<br />

pon a time, it was a maharajah's residence; but India today is a modern cou<br />

ntry, and such places have been expropriated by the State. The palace is a<br />

home for bereaved women now; they, understanding that their true lives ende<br />

d with the death of their husbands, but no longer permitted to seek the rel<br />

ease of sati, come to the holy city to pass their worthless days in heartfe<br />

lt ululations. In the palace of the widows lives a tribe of women whose che<br />

sts are irremediably bruised by the power of their continual pummellings, w<br />

hose hair it torn beyond repair, and whose voices are shredded by the const<br />

ant, keening expressions of their grief. It is a vast building, a labyrinth<br />

of tiny rooms on the upper storeys giving way to the great halls of lament<br />

ation below; and yes, that was where it happened, the Widow sucked me into<br />

the private heart of her terrible empire, I was locked away in a tiny upper<br />

room and the bereaved women brought me prison food. But I also had other v<br />

isitors: the war hero invited two of his colleagues along, for purposes of<br />

conversation. In other words: I was encouraged to talk. By an ill matched d<br />

uo, one fat, one thin, whom I named Abbott and Costello because they never<br />

succeeded in making me laugh.<br />

Here I record a merciful blank in my memory. Nothing can induce me to remem<br />

ber the conversational techniques of that humourless, uniformed pair; there

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