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e of the snakes, and allowed us a measure of comfort and space; while the<br />

wheels sang their abracadabras to Aadam's flapping ears.<br />

As we travelled to Bombay, the pessimism of Picture Singh expanded until it<br />

seemed that it had become a physical entity which merely looked like the o<br />

ld snake charmer. At Mathura an American youth with pustular chin and a hea<br />

d shaved bald as an egg got into our carriage amid the cacophony of hawkers<br />

selling earthen animals and cups of chaloo chai; he was fanning himself wi<br />

th a peacock feather fan, and the bad luck of peacock feathers depressed Pi<br />

cture Singh beyond imagining. While the infinite flatness of the Indo Gange<br />

tic plain unfolded outside the window, sending the hot insanity of the afte<br />

rnoon loo wind to torment us, the shaven American lectured to occupants of<br />

the carriage on the intricacies of Hinduism and began to teach them mantras<br />

while extending a walnut begging bowl; Picture Singh was blind to this rem<br />

arkable spectacle and also deaf to the abracadabra of the wheels. 'It is no<br />

good, captain,' he confided mournfully, 'This Bombay fellow will be young<br />

and strong, and I am doomed to be only the second most charming man from no<br />

w on.' By the time we reached Kotah Station, the odours of misfortune exude<br />

d by the peacock feather fan had possessed Pictureji utterly, had eroded hi<br />

m so alarmingly that although everyone in the carriage was getting out on t<br />

he side farthest from the platform to urinate against the side of the train<br />

, he showed no sign of needing to go. By Ratlam Junction, while my exciteme<br />

nt was mounting, he had fallen into a trance which was not sleep but the ri<br />

sing paralysis of the pessimism. 'At this rate,' I thought, 'he won't even<br />

be able to challenge this rival.' Baroda passed: no change. At Surat, the o<br />

ld John Company depot, I realized I'd have to do something soon, because ab<br />

racadabra was bringing us closer to Bombay Central by the minute, and so at<br />

last I picked up Picture Singh's old wooden flute, and by playing it with<br />

such terrible ineptitude that all the snakes writhed in agony and petrified<br />

the American youth into silence, by producing a noise so hellish that nobo<br />

dy noticed the passing of Bassein Road, Kurla, Mahim, I overcame the miasma of the<br />

s; at last Picture Singh shook himself out of his despondency with a faint g<br />

rin and said, 'Better you stop, captain, and let me play that thing; otherwi<br />

se some people are sure to die of pain.'<br />

Serpents subsided in their baskets; and then the wheels stopped singing, and<br />

we were there:<br />

Bombay! I hugged Aadam fiercely, and was unable to resist uttering an anci<br />

ent cry: 'Back to Bom!' I cheered, to the bewilderment of the American you<br />

th, who had never heard this mantra: and again, and again, and again: 'Bac<br />

k! Back to Bom!'<br />

By bus down Bellasis Road, towards the Tardeo roundabout, we travelled pa<br />

st Parsees with sunken eyes, past bicycle repair shops and Irani cafes; a

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