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nd then Hornby Vellard was on our right where promenaders watched as Sher<br />

ri the mongrel bitch was left to spill her guts! Where cardboard effigies<br />

of wrestlers still towered above the entrances to Vallabhbhai Patel Stad<br />

ium! and we were rattling and 'banging past traffic cops with sun umbrell<br />

as, past Mahalaxmi temple and then Warden Road! The Breach Candy Swimming<br />

Baths! And there, look, the shops… but the names had changed: where was<br />

Reader's Paradise with its stacks of Superman comics? Where, the Band Box<br />

Laundry and Bombelli's, with their One Yard Of Chocolates? And, my God,<br />

look, atop a two storey hillock where once the palaces of William Methwol<br />

d stood wreathed in bougainvillaea and stared proudly out to sea… look at<br />

it, a great pink monster of a building, the roseate skyscraper obelisk o<br />

f the Narlikar women, standing over and obliterating the circus ring of c<br />

hildhood… yes, it was my Bombay, but also not mine, because we reached Ke<br />

mp's Corner to find the hoardings of Air India's little rajah and of the<br />

Kolynos Kid gone, gone for good, and Thomas Kemp and Co. itself had vanis<br />

hed into thin air… flyovers crisscrossed where, once upon a time, medicin<br />

es were dispensed and a pixie in a chlorophyll cap beamed down upon the t<br />

raffic. Elegiacally, I murmured under my breath: 'Keep Teeth Kleen and Ke<br />

ep Teeth Brite! Keep Teeth Kolynos Super White!' But despite my incantati<br />

on, the past failed to reappear; we rattled on down Gibbs Road and dismou<br />

nted near Chowpatty Beach.<br />

Chowpatty, at least, was much the same: a dirty strip of sand aswarm with<br />

pickpockets, and strollers, and vendors of hot channa channa hot, of kulfi<br />

and bhel puri and chutter mutter; but further down Marine Drive I saw wha<br />

t tetrapods had achieved. On land reclaimed by the Narlikar consortium fro<br />

m the sea, vast monsters soared upwards to the sky, bearing strange alien<br />

names: oberoi sheraton screamed at me from afar. And where was the neon Je<br />

ep sign?… 'Come on, Pictureji,' I said at length, hugging Aadam to my ches<br />

t, 'Let's go where we're going and be done with it; the city has been changed.'<br />

What can I say about the Midnite Confidential Club? That its location is un<br />

derground, secret (although known to omniscient paan wallahs); its door, un<br />

marked; its clientele, the cream of Bombay society. What else? Ah, yes: man<br />

aged by one Anand 'Andy' Shroff, businessman playboy, who is to be found on<br />

most days tanning himself at the Sun 'n' Sand Hotel on Juhu Beach, amid fi<br />

lm stars and disenfranchised princesses. I ask you: an Indian, sun bathing?<br />

But apparently it's quite normal, the international rules of playboydom mu<br />

st be obeyed to the letter, including, I suppose, the one stipulating daily<br />

worshipping of the sun.<br />

How innocent I am (and I used to think that Sonny, forcep dented, was the si<br />

mple one!) I never suspected that places like the Midnite Confidential exist<br />

ed! But of course they do; and clutching flutes and snake baskets, the three

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