Priscila Lena Farias / Anna Calvera Marcos da Costa ... - Blucher

Digital clothing manufacture: digital innovation and co-Design changing the
clothing industry
SMITH, Marcia Tavares / PhD Student / Lancaster University / United Kingdom
BLAIR, Gordon; Professor of Distributed Systems / Lancaster University / United Kingdom
COOPER, Rachel; Professor of Design Management / Lancaster University / United Kingdom
Digital innovation / co-Design / Clothing industry / Mass-customization
/ Digital making
This research uses case studies to describe and explore how the
confluence of digital innovation and co-design is enabling new
models for the clothing industry. It shows how interfaces for mass
customization are being used to give consumers some participation
in product development, however mass production methods
still limit that. Nevertheless, digital innovation in production and
social network used to support and inform amateur makers suggest
ways that barriers might be overcome.
1. Introduction
Recently there has been a lot of interest in smart clothing. However,
the combination of digital innovation and clothing has the potential
to go much further than just the creation of smart garments.
Digital innovations can change how and where clothes are made,
can alter design processes and skills needed to produce garments
and result in different industry business models to those used today.
Such changes are being observed in creative industries such
as photography, music and graphic design, where the introduction
of digital innovations has already been transformative, giving more
power, information and skills to consumers. These changes enable
consumers to assume roles and activities that were once exclusive
to professionals such as designers, producers and editors (Atkinson,
2010; Bunnell & Marshall, 2009; Toffler, 1981). Our research
attempts to understand how the clothing industry will be affected
when digital innovation is applied in all aspects of clothing manufacture
and when consumers assume the role of amateur maker
aided by digital technology.
More specifically, our research question is:
How the confluence of digital innovation and co-creation practices
can instigate local and personal design and manufacture of
clothing?
Our method consists of a mixture of case studies and interventions.
This paper reports on the cases studies and findings of the
initial stage that have been carried out so far, and provides an overview
of the next steps in this project.
Digital innovations in clothing
Digital innovations, in the context of this research, are understood
to be new ideas, products, services and systems that with the aid
of computing power capture, transmit, process and analyse data,
transforming it into information, services and products. In doing so
they challenge the way key activities are realised or implemented.
The introduction of digital innovations in clothing began with the
use of Computer Aided Design (CAD) (Mccartney & Hinds, 1992;
Okabe et al, 1992). Initially, CAD systems were used for technical
drawing making the creation, grading and replication of patterns
easier (Kazlacheva, 2005; Ondogan & Erdogan, 2006). CAD systems
are now used to convert between 2D and 3D, permitting the
automation of pattern generation, simulation of garments and fit
(Apeagyei & Otieno, 2007; Wang et al, 2005; Kim & Kang, 2002; Lu,
et al, 2010; Ashdown & Dunne, 2006). Over the past two decades,
research explored how to bring together different technologies. For
example, Istook (2000) combined CAD garment design and pattern
making, digital printing and machine cutting for creating a system
for rapid prototyping of garments. However they believe that the
similar combinations could be used in the future for customizing
products once the technologies were more established.
Digital technologies now seem to be moving from labs to businesses.
For example, 3D body scanners can be used to find the right fit
for consumers. Fashion designers are using lasers to cut intricate
details onto textiles. Research such as Kitannen’s (2006), who created
garments using chain-mail like 3D printed structures, led the
way for 3D printed shoes, bikinis and accessories.
Computers were also used in production and supply chain management
allowing the spread of distributed production across the
globe. E-commerce is a establish activity in the clothing industry,
helping expand businesses networks and increase reach to consumers
(Spijkerman, 2008; Daly & Bruce, 2002). Online interfaces
now enable users to customise products to their own requirements.
Of particular relevance to this research is the use of digital
technology at production stages and online interfaces that permit
consumers to be directly involved in the creation of products. They
enable professional designers and makers to rapid prototype, experiment
with new techniques and materials, possibly creating
unique and personalized products, as well as permitting amateurs
to explore, test and lean through the digital medium before committing
to the production.
Co-design
Sanders & Stappers defined co-design as “the creativity of designers
and people not trained in design working together in
the design development process” (2008: p.6). In our research
we use the term co-design for activities when consumers are
Design Frontiers: Territiories, Concepts, Technologies / Proceedings of the 8th Conference of the International Committee for
Design History & Design Studies - ICDHS 2012 / São Paulo, Brazil / © 2012 Blucher / ISBN 978-85-212-0692-7