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Thinking black; 22 years without a break in the long grass of Central ...

Thinking black; 22 years without a break in the long grass of Central ...

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"BORING IN '<br />

FARTHER<br />

7'&<br />

GoverDment's hands. And, sure enough, Bihe was<br />

broken : Capta<strong>in</strong> Paiva s jo<strong>in</strong>t expedition <strong>of</strong> Portuguese<br />

and Boers came on <strong>the</strong> scene, <strong>the</strong> k<strong>in</strong>g captured and carried<br />

<strong>of</strong>f to San Tome. There <strong>the</strong> wild Atlantic is Portugal's<br />

surest sent<strong>in</strong>el on that lonely isle ; <strong>the</strong>re <strong>the</strong> slaves f<strong>in</strong>d<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves so hopelessly locked <strong>in</strong> for life that <strong>the</strong>y eat<br />

earth for suicide.<br />

This is how we take <strong>the</strong> great plunge. An Ombala,<br />

or Chiefs town, rests upon <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>the</strong>r steep<br />

slope slant<strong>in</strong>g down to <strong>the</strong> sandy Kwanza beach, crowded<br />

with " dugouts." But this ramshackle village is so very<br />

much <strong>the</strong> key to <strong>the</strong> cross<strong>in</strong>g that you must enter by its<br />

front gate, wriggle through <strong>the</strong> huts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> malodorous<br />

town to effect your exit on <strong>the</strong> shore. We don't stand<br />

<strong>long</strong>, however, ere <strong>the</strong>re files down to <strong>the</strong> beach a <strong>long</strong><br />

trad<strong>in</strong>g caravan, wav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> big flag <strong>of</strong> little Portugal,<br />

and this with ours makes a f<strong>in</strong>e babel <strong>in</strong> bidd<strong>in</strong>g for<br />

canoes. Meantime, Messrs. Thompson and Lane have<br />

crossed to receive our loads, while I rema<strong>in</strong> for three<br />

mortal hours to direct <strong>the</strong> cross<strong>in</strong>g. Then (Heaven-sent<br />

chance !) <strong>the</strong> old broken-backed chief comes dow^n, and we<br />

sit cheek by jowl chatt<strong>in</strong>g Christianity. With one foot<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> grave, here is a wi<strong>the</strong>red old man treat<strong>in</strong>g you to<br />

a <strong>long</strong>, disconcert<strong>in</strong>g scrut<strong>in</strong>y, and quizz<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>credulously<br />

as to our Garenganze Gospel venture. We yet await<br />

classification, it seems ; we are not traders, nor raiders,<br />

<strong>the</strong>refore he cannot get at us, cannot "place" us.<br />

The only category he can conceive is that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> "people<br />

who live by do<strong>in</strong>g noth<strong>in</strong>g." The Vachokwe tribe, next-

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