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Thinking black; 22 years without a break in the long grass of Central ...

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"GREAT WHITE LAKE" 403<br />

But let us cont<strong>in</strong>ue our voyage. Glid<strong>in</strong>g past<br />

<strong>the</strong>se birds, a huge aviary that beggars all description,<br />

on and on we fare ; <strong>the</strong>n somebody spies certa<strong>in</strong><br />

suspicious specks <strong>of</strong> <strong>black</strong> far out to sea—Shimba's<br />

scouts, probably. At this po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>the</strong>re is much ambiguous<br />

whisper<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong>n a mild mut<strong>in</strong>y <strong>break</strong>s out as to whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

we dare push on. Ten, twenty, and thirty m<strong>in</strong>utes pass,<br />

and now <strong>the</strong> <strong>black</strong> hulls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canoes are seen bear<strong>in</strong>g<br />

down on us for all <strong>the</strong> world like t<strong>in</strong>y torpedo-boats : <strong>the</strong><br />

lead<strong>in</strong>g log makes straight for my boat, a m<strong>in</strong>iature<br />

replica <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old sailor's pr<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arethusa bear<strong>in</strong>g<br />

up to engage <strong>the</strong> Belle Poule. But it is a mere scare<br />

<strong>the</strong>se are Arab scouts who sail up quite close, <strong>of</strong>fer<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

Fontenoy privilege <strong>of</strong> first shot, <strong>the</strong>n, hav<strong>in</strong>g verified<br />

who and where we are, away <strong>the</strong>y dart back to report at<br />

headquarters <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> island. The result <strong>of</strong> that encounter<br />

was as sad and sorry a th<strong>in</strong>g for me as could well happen.<br />

For when Shimba saw that we had given him <strong>the</strong> slip he<br />

swore a sudden vengeance, put to sea with a flotilla <strong>of</strong><br />

dug-outs, cut across Lake to my old fisher-friend who<br />

grudg<strong>in</strong>gly gave me <strong>the</strong> canoes yesterday, burned his<br />

village to <strong>the</strong> ground and dragged him <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s.<br />

Not much cause for congratulation here : my visit has<br />

been a visitation—see, away <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance <strong>the</strong> village<br />

<strong>in</strong> flames ! Can you wonder at that old man for <strong>years</strong><br />

and <strong>years</strong> shoot<strong>in</strong>g an envenomed glance at <strong>the</strong> very<br />

mention <strong>of</strong> my name? What a monstrous enigma it<br />

must have seemed to him, my preach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> peace and<br />

claim<strong>in</strong>g to be an ambassador <strong>the</strong>re<strong>of</strong>, whereas <strong>the</strong> net

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