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Thinking black; 22 years without a break in the long grass of Central ...

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BLACK MAN = BLACK MANNERS 461<br />

descry a curious procession <strong>of</strong> S<strong>in</strong>dbad-<strong>the</strong>- Sailor float<strong>in</strong>g<br />

islets, " Bob-abouts " (<br />

Visera) <strong>the</strong>ir name. Really clotted<br />

masses <strong>of</strong> papyrus, duck-weed, and Phragmites, <strong>the</strong>se have<br />

been swept down by <strong>the</strong> Luapula current, <strong>the</strong> rug and tug<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eddies tear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m from <strong>the</strong> parent bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

river. So launched <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> first <strong>in</strong>stance on <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>long</strong><br />

voyage by <strong>the</strong> swirl<strong>in</strong>g Luapula, this same current pilots<br />

<strong>the</strong>m far down-Lake, <strong>the</strong>ir dest<strong>in</strong>ation be<strong>in</strong>g any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

capes jutt<strong>in</strong>g out to debar far<strong>the</strong>r advance. Funny fact<br />

though it looks, it is really <strong>the</strong>se float<strong>in</strong>g islands that have<br />

crowded Kilwa <strong>in</strong> mid-Lake with leopards, and <strong>the</strong> islanders<br />

tell <strong>the</strong> tale quite circumstantially. There came a dark<br />

day when, like a pirate fly<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> <strong>black</strong> flag, one such<br />

float<strong>in</strong>g island grounded on <strong>the</strong> South shore <strong>of</strong> Kilwa with<br />

a young male leopard aboard, a poor quadruped Adam<br />

this, <strong>without</strong> an Eve. One year passed and yet ano<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

and lo, a charm<strong>in</strong>g lady-leopard came across, cab<strong>in</strong><br />

passenger, if you please, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cosy depths <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

float<strong>in</strong>g island. At this po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> fisher narrative <strong>the</strong><br />

naked old " Admiral " <strong>of</strong> canoes sticks his hands <strong>in</strong>to<br />

imag<strong>in</strong>ary pockets and drops his jaw. Need he add <strong>the</strong><br />

sequel? Both at <strong>the</strong> mat<strong>in</strong>g age, that quadruped Eve<br />

really robbed <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir Eden, for are <strong>the</strong>re not now as<br />

many leopards as negroes on <strong>the</strong> island ? The <strong>the</strong>ory that<br />

<strong>the</strong>se leopards swam across such an expanse <strong>of</strong> Lake is<br />

absurd, albeit a leopard is <strong>the</strong> best swimmer <strong>of</strong> all African<br />

Carnivora. The snug depths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se float<strong>in</strong>g islands are<br />

shady and seductive enough to account for such curious<br />

cab<strong>in</strong> passengers. But better far than all this is <strong>the</strong>

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