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Thinking black; 22 years without a break in the long grass of Central ...

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BORING OUT EAST 365<br />

strike Mweru at its South-Western corner, and negotiate<br />

<strong>the</strong> first trans-Lake voyage <strong>in</strong> dug-outs.<br />

But here it is a <strong>long</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> lion <strong>in</strong>cidents occur, <strong>the</strong><br />

curious persistency <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> th<strong>in</strong>g be<strong>in</strong>g like <strong>the</strong> African's<br />

proverbial ra<strong>in</strong> that never comes but it pours. At any<br />

rate, <strong>the</strong>y seem to be all <strong>the</strong> fashion, whe<strong>the</strong>r biped lions<br />

or quadrupeds, for here is this putrid scoundrel <strong>of</strong> an<br />

Arab call<strong>in</strong>g himself Shimba = The Lion, and even Chilolo<br />

claims <strong>the</strong> suffix-surname Ntambo, which also means<br />

" Lion." Certa<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>the</strong>. roar<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> name soon became a<br />

roar<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> reality. Forewarned <strong>of</strong> trouble ahead, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

phrase Ntanda ya kava, " <strong>the</strong> forest is on fire," we<br />

began by camp<strong>in</strong>g early and build<strong>in</strong>g a strong skerm, as<br />

war-parties do. That night, however, we drew a blank,<br />

<strong>the</strong> only <strong>in</strong>cident be<strong>in</strong>g a troop <strong>of</strong> elephants rush<strong>in</strong>g past<br />

at sundown, mak<strong>in</strong>g a noise like thunder. Plung<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to<br />

<strong>the</strong> fens near by, <strong>the</strong>y ba<strong>the</strong>d for more than an hour, and<br />

with glee seem<strong>in</strong>gly. Near<strong>in</strong>g Mbovola's village, however,<br />

we f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> villagers outside, frantic with excitement, and<br />

bravely roast<strong>in</strong>g a large lioness which had dar<strong>in</strong>gly leaped<br />

<strong>the</strong> fifteen-feet-high stockade and killed a woman ; move<br />

on and <strong>in</strong>to this village, but just as we enter at one side,<br />

down goes <strong>the</strong> portcullis gate with a smash at <strong>the</strong> river<br />

entrance, <strong>break</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> leap <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> large male lion ac-<br />

companied by two little ones, all seem<strong>in</strong>gly bent on<br />

aveng<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> lioness. Then, day and night, <strong>the</strong> drums<br />

d<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir deafen<strong>in</strong>g noise, all hope lost <strong>of</strong> your sleep<strong>in</strong>g up<br />

arrears <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past wakeful nights.<br />

Nor will <strong>the</strong> villagers let us <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> next day, so here

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