A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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130 A MEETING. are discussing a bottle of Guinness's porter, I am scribbling away in all haste, in order that I may " sign, seal, and deliver " .my despatches to Mr. D., who has kindly volunteered to take charge of them, and post them from Cairo an opportunity not to be lost. So, for the pre- sent, fare thee well ! —
KENNEH. 131 CHAPTER VIT. KENNEH.—ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION.— A VISIT. A RIDE.—NILE BIRDS. — THE GHAWAZEE. — EGYPTIAN SCENERY. LUXOR. BRIGHT IDEAS. TEMPLE OP LUXOR. EGYPTIAN ARCHITEC- TURE. AN ANTIQUARY. ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. TEMPLE OF ESNEH.—DISENCHANTMENT. A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. Off Thebes, Nov. 20, 1845. I CLOSED my last letter in double quick time that I might insure its reaching the region of post-offices by a safe hand ; and now I resume my pen to tell you that, during the night of the 15th, we reached Kenneh, or, more cor- rectly speaking, that part of the Nile nearest to it, for the town lies about a mile and a half inland. It is the residence of an English consular agent, an old Arab named Said Hus- sein, a Shereef, or descendant of the Prophet, who is Sheikh of the place, said to be very rich, and altogether a very important personage. As we were in hopes of finding letters for- warded to his care for us from Cairo, one of our party went on shore early on the morn- ing of the 16th, to call upon him, accompanied K 2
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,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
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'-^^Cf^
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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
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CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
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CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
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ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
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2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
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4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
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6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
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8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
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10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
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12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
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IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
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18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
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20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
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22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
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24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
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26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
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28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
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30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
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32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
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34 soiri
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36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
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38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
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40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
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42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
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44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
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4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
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48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
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60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
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52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
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54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
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56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
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58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
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60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
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62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
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64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
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66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
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68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
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70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
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72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
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74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
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76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
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78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
Page 100 and 101: 80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
Page 102 and 103: 82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
Page 104 and 105: 84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
Page 106 and 107: 86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
Page 108 and 109: 88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
Page 110 and 111: 90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
Page 112 and 113: 92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
Page 114 and 115: 94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
Page 116 and 117: 90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
Page 118 and 119: 98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
Page 120 and 121: 100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
Page 122 and 123: 102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
Page 124 and 125: 104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
Page 126 and 127: 106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
Page 128 and 129: 108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
Page 130 and 131: 110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
Page 132 and 133: 112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
Page 134 and 135: 114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
Page 136 and 137: 116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
Page 138 and 139: 118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
Page 140 and 141: 120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
Page 142 and 143: 122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
Page 144 and 145: 124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
Page 146 and 147: 126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
Page 148 and 149: 128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
Page 152 and 153: 132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
Page 154 and 155: 134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
Page 156 and 157: 136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
Page 158 and 159: 138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
Page 160 and 161: 1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
Page 162 and 163: 142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
Page 164 and 165: 144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
Page 166 and 167: 146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
Page 168 and 169: 148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
Page 170 and 171: 150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
Page 172 and 173: 152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
Page 174 and 175: 1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
Page 176 and 177: 156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
Page 178 and 179: 158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
Page 180 and 181: 160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
Page 182 and 183: 162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
Page 184 and 185: 164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
Page 186 and 187: 166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
Page 188 and 189: 168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
Page 190 and 191: 170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
Page 192 and 193: 172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
Page 194 and 195: 174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
Page 196 and 197: 170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
Page 198 and 199: 178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
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180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
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182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
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184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
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186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
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188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
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190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
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192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
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194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
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196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
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198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
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200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
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202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
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204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
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20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
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208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
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210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
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DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
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A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
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A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
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NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
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OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
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ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
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WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
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SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
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ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
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BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
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THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
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RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
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KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
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THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
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BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
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PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
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RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
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TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
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PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
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PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
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RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
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ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
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ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
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GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
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TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
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VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
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TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
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SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
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SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
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TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
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CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
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PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
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THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
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TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
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THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
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RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
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BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
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THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
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THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
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AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
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KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
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AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
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THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
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REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
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TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
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CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
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MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
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MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
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SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
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THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
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THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
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AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
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TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
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TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
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TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
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VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
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SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
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THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
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THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
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SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
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DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
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NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
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PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
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! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
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PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
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BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
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COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
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IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
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SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
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OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
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RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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