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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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312 WESTERN THEBES.<br />

those bold inventions Avliich had marked <strong>the</strong><br />

days <strong>of</strong> her glory.<br />

This afternoon we rode all over <strong>the</strong> plain <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> northward <strong>of</strong> Western Thebes, which evident-<br />

ly contained <strong>the</strong> great Necropolis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient<br />

city, as <strong>the</strong> whole ground is one continued series<br />

<strong>of</strong> vast mummy catacombs disposed in long gal-<br />

leries <strong>and</strong> suites <strong>of</strong> chambers, very neatly con-<br />

structed, but without ei<strong>the</strong>r painting or sculpture,<br />

or even plaster, <strong>to</strong> conceal <strong>the</strong> rudeness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

walls <strong>and</strong> partitions. The entrances <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />

sepulchral chambers very much resemble <strong>the</strong><br />

catacombs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new cemetery <strong>of</strong> Kensall Green,<br />

<strong>and</strong> I should imagine that <strong>the</strong> mummies must<br />

have been disposed in <strong>the</strong> same manner that <strong>the</strong><br />

c<strong>of</strong>fins are placed <strong>the</strong>re. But not a single<br />

mummy is now forthcoming; <strong>the</strong> living have<br />

succeeded <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> dead, <strong>and</strong> Arab villages are<br />

established in <strong>the</strong> burial vaults <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old<br />

Thebans.<br />

As <strong>to</strong> ascertaining or determining <strong>the</strong> limits<br />

<strong>of</strong> ancient Thebes, we have vainly endeavoured<br />

<strong>to</strong> do so. The whole plain, from <strong>the</strong> western<br />

bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nile <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rocky moun-<br />

tains which contain <strong>the</strong> royal <strong>to</strong>mbs, is more or<br />

less scattered with <strong>the</strong> fragments <strong>of</strong> sacred edi-<br />

fices <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir vast accessories, or with <strong>the</strong> yawn-

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