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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291<br />

which <strong>the</strong>y broke open <strong>to</strong> seek for buried trea-<br />

sures. Desecra<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> all nations have succeeded<br />

<strong>the</strong>m; <strong>and</strong> now, so completely have <strong>the</strong> graves<br />

been made <strong>to</strong> give up <strong>the</strong>ir dead, <strong>the</strong>re is scarcely<br />

an entire mummy <strong>to</strong> be obtained for love or<br />

money at Thebes.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>mbs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Assassief, <strong>the</strong> first in<strong>to</strong><br />

which we entered, are wholly distinct from <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>mbs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> kings, having been <strong>the</strong> private<br />

sepulchres <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rich Thebans. The largest <strong>and</strong><br />

finest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m was excavated for <strong>the</strong> priest<br />

<strong>and</strong> prophet, Petamenoph, <strong>and</strong> his family, whose<br />

name <strong>and</strong> titles are sculptured upon a fine gate-<br />

way <strong>of</strong> rose-coloured granite, erected by him at<br />

Medinet Habou. The approach <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Assassief<br />

is through a valley in <strong>the</strong> desert, where nothino-<br />

but s<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> rock are <strong>to</strong> be seen below, <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> intense blue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sunny skies above ; <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> way lies across what must have been <strong>the</strong> an-<br />

cient Necropolis <strong>of</strong> Thebes ; a dreary tract, honey-<br />

combed with a series <strong>of</strong> pitfalls, through which<br />

one risks <strong>to</strong> tumble head foremost in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rifled<br />

catacombs beneath. The entrance in<strong>to</strong> some <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>mbs is through a h<strong>and</strong>some doorway, orna-<br />

mented with sculpture <strong>and</strong> painting, but in o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />

it is through an aperture in <strong>the</strong> rock, like <strong>the</strong><br />

mouth <strong>of</strong> an oven ; <strong>and</strong> I was obliged <strong>to</strong> crawl

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