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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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266 TEMPLE OF EDFOU.<br />

<strong>to</strong> give <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> character <strong>of</strong> <strong>temples</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />

dwellings.<br />

Yesterday morning we reached Edfou, <strong>the</strong><br />

Apollonopolis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient Greeks, <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong>ed<br />

after breakfast <strong>to</strong> visit <strong>the</strong> temple. It is about a<br />

mile from <strong>the</strong> river side, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> ride <strong>to</strong> it is (for<br />

this country,) ra<strong>the</strong>r an agreeable one, through<br />

less <strong>of</strong> dust <strong>and</strong> more <strong>of</strong> verdure than is generally<br />

<strong>to</strong> be found in Upper <strong>Egypt</strong>. The morning air<br />

was scented by bean-fields in full bloom ; <strong>and</strong><br />

patches <strong>of</strong> dhourra, partitioned <strong>of</strong>f by hedges<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cas<strong>to</strong>r-oil plant, tempted our donkeys <strong>to</strong><br />

many a loitering nibble by <strong>the</strong> way-side. The<br />

temple is dedicated <strong>to</strong> Aroeris (<strong>the</strong> Apollo <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Greeks,) <strong>and</strong> I believe that no constructed sanc-<br />

tuary in <strong>the</strong> valley <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nile remains so perfect<br />

as regards its form <strong>and</strong> outline ;<br />

<strong>and</strong> a more com-<br />

plete idea may be formed from it <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> general<br />

plan <strong>and</strong> appearance <strong>of</strong> those sacred edifices than<br />

from <strong>the</strong> rock-cut <strong>temples</strong> <strong>of</strong> Ibsamboul. For<br />

Edfou possesses its magnificent propylon intact,<br />

opening in<strong>to</strong> a splendid peristyled court surround-<br />

ed by thirty-two colossal columns, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n fol-<br />

lows <strong>the</strong> pronaos with its mighty pillars in <strong>the</strong><br />

style <strong>of</strong> that <strong>of</strong> Esne. The inner chambers <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> sanctuary are now impassable, as <strong>the</strong> soil, or<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> Arab villages that have sue-

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