A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It was evident that they rejected him as an unbeliever, and the poor fellow, after having held in his breath, and squeezed himself nearly into extinction in his strenuous endeavours to assert his faith, was obliged to consent to be drawn back again, quite crest-fallen. An En- glish gentleman ^vho accompanied us, and who has resided many years in Egypt, very gravely condoled with him upon the fact of his having been discovered through the unerring test to be a Kafir, (an infidel,) and then proceeded to take his place ; when, to the indescribable consterna- tion of the Moslem, the Christian passed between the pillars without an effort. This was the un- kindest cut of all on the part of the contrary columns,—it was " straining at a gnat, and swal- lowing a camel;" — the man walked away in silence from the scene of his humiliation, but as he rode before us we heard him muttering to himself the whole way home ; and I have no doubt, from the expression of his countenance, when he lifted me from my donkey at the Ho- tel door, that chenmi faisa7it he had arrived at the consoling conclusion, that the famous orthodox columns of Amr's mosque, are the most arrant pair of humbugs in the Viceroy's dominions. Adieu ! —
CAIRO. 77 CHAPTER V. CAIRO. CAIRO MISSION.— CLIMATE.—PLAGUES OF EGYPT. PRO- JECTED MARRIAGE. MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. BRIDAL PALACE.—WEDDING PROCESSIONS. TOMBS OF THE MEMLOOK KINGS. — EL KAITBEY. THE VICEROy's TOMB. — OVERLAND MAILS. AFFECTING EVENT. THE GOOD SAMARITAN. RAIL- ROAD TO SUEZ.— DR. Abbott's museum.— Egyptian antiquities. Cairo, Nov. 9, 1845. Will you not exclaim at me for having written two letters from Cairo without even alluding to the Pyramids? And no wonder that you should wonder at the omission, which is tantamount to the tragedy of Hamlet being announced for re- presentation with the part of Hamlet to be left out ! But know that I have not yet approached them, although they are within ten miles of Cairo, (and from the exceeding clearness of the atmo- sphere they give one the idea of being much nearer) ; and every time I turn my eyes towards Ghizeh, those majestic masses appear to frown a cold and silent reproach upon me for having allowed so many days to elapse without paying
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,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
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'-^^Cf^
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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
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CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
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CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
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ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
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2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
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4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
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6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
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8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
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10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
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12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
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IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
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18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
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20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
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22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
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24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
Page 46 and 47: 26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
Page 48 and 49: 28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
Page 50 and 51: 30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
Page 52 and 53: 32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
Page 54 and 55: 34 soiri
Page 56 and 57: 36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
Page 58 and 59: 38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
Page 60 and 61: 40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
Page 62 and 63: 42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
Page 64 and 65: 44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
Page 66 and 67: 4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
Page 68 and 69: 48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
Page 70 and 71: 60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
Page 72 and 73: 52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
Page 74 and 75: 54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
Page 76 and 77: 56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
Page 78 and 79: 58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
Page 80 and 81: 60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
Page 82 and 83: 62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
Page 84 and 85: 64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
Page 86 and 87: 66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
Page 88 and 89: 68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
Page 90 and 91: 70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
Page 92 and 93: 72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
Page 94 and 95: 74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
Page 98 and 99: 78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
Page 100 and 101: 80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
Page 102 and 103: 82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
Page 104 and 105: 84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
Page 106 and 107: 86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
Page 108 and 109: 88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
Page 110 and 111: 90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
Page 112 and 113: 92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
Page 114 and 115: 94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
Page 116 and 117: 90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
Page 118 and 119: 98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
Page 120 and 121: 100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
Page 122 and 123: 102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
Page 124 and 125: 104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
Page 126 and 127: 106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
Page 128 and 129: 108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
Page 130 and 131: 110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
Page 132 and 133: 112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
Page 134 and 135: 114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
Page 136 and 137: 116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
Page 138 and 139: 118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
Page 140 and 141: 120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
Page 142 and 143: 122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
Page 144 and 145: 124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
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126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
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128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
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130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
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132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
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134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
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136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
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138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
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1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
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142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
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144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
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146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
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148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
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150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
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152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
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1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
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156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
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158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
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160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
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162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
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164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
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166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
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168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
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172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
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174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
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178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
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180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
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182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
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184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
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186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
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188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
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190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
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192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
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194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
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196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
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198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
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200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
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202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
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204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
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20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
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208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
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210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
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DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
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A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
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A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
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NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
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OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
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ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
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WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
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SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
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ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
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BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
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THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
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RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
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KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
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THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
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BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
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PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
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RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
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TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
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PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
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PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
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RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
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ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
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ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
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GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
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TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
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VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
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TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
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SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
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SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
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TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
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CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
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PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
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THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
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TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
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THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
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RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
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BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
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THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
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THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
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AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
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KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
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AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
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THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
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REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
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TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
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CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
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MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
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MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
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SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
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THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
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THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
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AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
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TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
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TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
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TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
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VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
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SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
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THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
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THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
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SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
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DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
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NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
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PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
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! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
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PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
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BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
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COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
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IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
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SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
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OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
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RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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