A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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Xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Cairo.—Cairo Mission.—Climate.—Plagues of Egypt. — Projected Marriage.— Mohammed Bey Defterdar. — Bridal Palace.—Wedding Processions. — Tombs of the Memlook Kings.—El Kaitbey.—The Viceroy's Tomb. Overland Mail.—Affecting Event.—The Good Samaritan. FACE Railroad to Suez.— Dr. Abbott's Museum. — Egyptian Antiquities. . . . - . .77 CHAPTER VI. Departure from Cairo. — The Swift.— Arab Crew. Arab Music.—Arab Dances.—River Scenery.—A Breeze. —Egyptian Cavalry.—Life on the Nile.—Arab Temper- ance.—Arab Misery.—Crocodiles.—A Meeting. . 107 CHAPTER VII. Kenneh.—Arab Filial Affection.—A Visit.—A Ride. —Nile Birds.—The Ghawazee. — Egyptian Scenery. Luxor.—Bright Ideas. — Temple of Luxor.— Egyptian Architecture. — An Antiquary. — Arrival at Esneh. Temple of Esneh.—Disenchantment.—A Shoal of Croco- diles. . . . . . .131 CHAPTER VIII. Passing Glimpses. — Preparations.—Es-souan.— Quar- ries of Syene.—Desert Cemetery.—The Berbers.—Mixed Population.— Pleasures of Polygamy. — Elephantina. The First Cataract.— Reis Hassan.—Success.—Mahatta. —Slave Boat View of Philre. . . .157 CHAPTER IX. Progress up the River. —Nubian Scenery.—Korosko. —Course of the Nile.—Taxation.— A Battle-royal. Ibrim. . . . . . .184
CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Addeh. — Temples of Ibsamboul.— Derr.— PAGE Nubian Palace.—A Nubian Prince.—A Nubian Hareem. High Life in Nubia. . . . . .204 CHAPTER XI. Nubian Ballet. ^—Ostrich Eggs.— Desert Dromedaries. —Ababde Arabs. — Wady Sebooa.— Dakkeh.— Second Editions of Temples.—Ghirsche Housseyn.—Dandour. — A Egyptian Mercury.—The Vendetta.—Rahaba.— Kalabs- chi.—The God Malouli.—Bet-oually.—Debod. . 225 CHAPTER XII. Philse.—Ruins.—Augustan Era of Egyptian Art. Temple of Isis.—Portrait of Cleopatra.— Pharaoh's Bed. —An Arrival,—Rencontre.—Descent of the Cataract. Another Rencontre.—Egyptian Pebbles. . . 249 CHAPTER XIII. Koora Ombos.—Ghebel Silsilis.—Temple of Edfou. View.—El Kob.— Tombs. —Banished Ghawazee.— Sofia. —Tallyho CHAPTER XIV. Arab Greetings.— Christmas Cheer. — Tipsy Turkey. —The Vocal Memnon. — Medinet Habou. — Pharaonic Architecture.—Egyptian Mythology.—The Rhamesseium Tombs. — The Assassief.— Relics. — Biban El Moluk. Belzoni's Tomb.—The Hall of Beauty.—Bruce's Tomb. .263 —The Harpers.— Allegories.—Amulets. . .278
Page 1 and 2: ,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
Page 3: '-^^Cf^
Page 7 and 8: A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
Page 9 and 10: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
Page 11 and 12: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
Page 13 and 14: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
Page 15: CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
Page 19: ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
Page 22 and 23: 2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
Page 24 and 25: 4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
Page 26 and 27: 6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
Page 28 and 29: 8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
Page 30 and 31: 10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
Page 32 and 33: 12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
Page 34 and 35: 14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
Page 36 and 37: IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
Page 38 and 39: 18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
Page 40 and 41: 20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
Page 42 and 43: 22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
Page 44 and 45: 24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
Page 46 and 47: 26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
Page 48 and 49: 28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
Page 50 and 51: 30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
Page 52 and 53: 32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
Page 54 and 55: 34 soiri
Page 56 and 57: 36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
Page 58 and 59: 38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
Page 60 and 61: 40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
Page 62 and 63: 42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
Page 64 and 65: 44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
Page 66 and 67:
4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
Page 68 and 69:
48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
Page 70 and 71:
60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
Page 72 and 73:
52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
Page 74 and 75:
54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
Page 76 and 77:
56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
Page 78 and 79:
58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
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60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
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62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
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64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
Page 86 and 87:
66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
Page 88 and 89:
68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
Page 90 and 91:
70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
Page 92 and 93:
72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
Page 94 and 95:
74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
Page 96 and 97:
76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
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78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
Page 100 and 101:
80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
Page 102 and 103:
82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
Page 104 and 105:
84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
Page 106 and 107:
86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
Page 108 and 109:
88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
Page 110 and 111:
90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
Page 112 and 113:
92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
Page 114 and 115:
94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
Page 116 and 117:
90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
Page 118 and 119:
98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
Page 120 and 121:
100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
Page 122 and 123:
102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
Page 124 and 125:
104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
Page 126 and 127:
106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
Page 128 and 129:
108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
Page 130 and 131:
110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
Page 132 and 133:
112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
Page 134 and 135:
114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
Page 136 and 137:
116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
Page 138 and 139:
118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
Page 140 and 141:
120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
Page 142 and 143:
122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
Page 144 and 145:
124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
Page 146 and 147:
126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
Page 148 and 149:
128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
Page 150 and 151:
130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
Page 152 and 153:
132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
Page 154 and 155:
134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
Page 156 and 157:
136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
Page 158 and 159:
138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
Page 160 and 161:
1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
Page 162 and 163:
142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
Page 164 and 165:
144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
Page 166 and 167:
146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
Page 168 and 169:
148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
Page 170 and 171:
150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
Page 172 and 173:
152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
Page 174 and 175:
1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
Page 176 and 177:
156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
Page 178 and 179:
158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
Page 180 and 181:
160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
Page 182 and 183:
162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
Page 184 and 185:
164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
Page 186 and 187:
166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
Page 188 and 189:
168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
Page 190 and 191:
170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
Page 192 and 193:
172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
Page 194 and 195:
174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
Page 196 and 197:
170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
Page 198 and 199:
178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
Page 200 and 201:
180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
Page 202 and 203:
182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
Page 204 and 205:
184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
Page 206 and 207:
186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
Page 208 and 209:
188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
Page 210 and 211:
190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
Page 212 and 213:
192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
Page 214 and 215:
194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
Page 216 and 217:
196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
Page 218 and 219:
198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
Page 220 and 221:
200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
Page 222 and 223:
202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
Page 224 and 225:
204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
Page 226 and 227:
20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
Page 228 and 229:
208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
Page 230 and 231:
210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
Page 233 and 234:
TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
Page 235 and 236:
TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
Page 237 and 238:
DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
Page 239 and 240:
A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
Page 241 and 242:
A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
Page 243 and 244:
A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
Page 245 and 246:
A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
Page 247 and 248:
NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
Page 249 and 250:
OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
Page 251 and 252:
ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
Page 253 and 254:
WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
Page 255 and 256:
SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
Page 257 and 258:
ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
Page 259 and 260:
BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
Page 261 and 262:
THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
Page 263 and 264:
RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
Page 265 and 266:
KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
Page 267 and 268:
THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
Page 269 and 270:
BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
Page 271 and 272:
PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
Page 273 and 274:
RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
Page 275 and 276:
TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
Page 277 and 278:
PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
Page 279 and 280:
PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
Page 281 and 282:
RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
Page 283 and 284:
ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
Page 285 and 286:
ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
Page 287 and 288:
GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
Page 289 and 290:
TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
Page 291 and 292:
VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
Page 293 and 294:
TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
Page 295 and 296:
SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
Page 297 and 298:
SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
Page 299 and 300:
TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
Page 301 and 302:
CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
Page 303 and 304:
THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
Page 305 and 306:
THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
Page 307 and 308:
PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
Page 309 and 310:
THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
Page 311 and 312:
TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
Page 313 and 314:
THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
Page 315 and 316:
RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
Page 317 and 318:
BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
Page 319 and 320:
THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
Page 321 and 322:
THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
Page 323 and 324:
AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
Page 325 and 326:
KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
Page 329 and 330:
HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
Page 331 and 332:
HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
Page 333 and 334:
AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
Page 335 and 336:
THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
Page 337 and 338:
REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
Page 339 and 340:
TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
Page 341 and 342:
CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
Page 343 and 344:
MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
Page 345 and 346:
MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
Page 347 and 348:
SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
Page 349 and 350:
THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
Page 351 and 352:
THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
Page 353 and 354:
AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
Page 355 and 356:
TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
Page 357 and 358:
TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
Page 359 and 360:
TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
Page 361 and 362:
VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
Page 363 and 364:
SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
Page 365 and 366:
THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
Page 367 and 368:
THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
Page 369 and 370:
SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
Page 371 and 372:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
Page 373 and 374:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
Page 375 and 376:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
Page 377 and 378:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
Page 379 and 380:
DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
Page 381 and 382:
NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
Page 383 and 384:
PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
Page 385 and 386:
! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
Page 387 and 388:
PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
Page 389 and 390:
BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
Page 391 and 392:
COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
Page 393 and 394:
IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
Page 395 and 396:
SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
Page 397 and 398:
OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
Page 399:
RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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