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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. 155<br />

<strong>and</strong> gratification than I experienced this morn-<br />

ing among <strong>the</strong> all-but-contemned columns <strong>of</strong><br />

this work <strong>of</strong> " modern times.""<br />

I have been debating with myself before I sat<br />

down <strong>to</strong> write, whe<strong>the</strong>r it would not be allowable<br />

for me <strong>to</strong> attempt <strong>to</strong> cut a scientific figure with<br />

you, <strong>and</strong>, assuming a fastidious <strong>to</strong>ne based upon<br />

a thorough knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> subject, express<br />

myself contemptuously upon <strong>the</strong> decline <strong>of</strong> Egyp-<br />

tian art as visible in <strong>the</strong> sculptures <strong>of</strong> Esneh.<br />

But truth has prevailed over vanity, <strong>and</strong> I give<br />

you my impressions in all <strong>the</strong>ir honesty <strong>and</strong> all<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir ignorance. Keep <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> yourself, how-<br />

ever, for I do not say but that when I return<br />

home with my hieroglyphical education com-<br />

pleted by <strong>the</strong> running commentaries I am now<br />

in <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> making through <strong>the</strong> l<strong>and</strong>, I may<br />

not indulge in some superb disdain when speak-<br />

ing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>ian <strong>temples</strong> constructed in <strong>the</strong><br />

times <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Greek P<strong>to</strong>lemies <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Roman<br />

Emperors ; <strong>and</strong> getting a cheval upon my Pha-<br />

raonic lore, turn up my nose knowingly at <strong>the</strong><br />

degeneracy <strong>of</strong> art exhibited at Esneh <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

edifices <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same date—so pray be discreet<br />

This evening a large shoal <strong>of</strong> crocodiles — at<br />

least twenty or thirty—swam past our boat, some<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong> prodigious length, <strong>and</strong> all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m so<br />

!

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