A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRIVAL. PORT OF ALEXANDRIA. LANDING. ALEX- ANDRIA. FELLAHS. POMPEY's PILLAR. CEMETERY. CLEO- PATRA'S NEEDLES. ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA.— FIELD OF BATTLE. POLITICAL VIEWS. — FORTIFICATIONS. — THE VICEROY's PA- LACE. DATE PALMS. SOIREE. Alexandria, Nov. 1, 1845. We embarked in L'Alexandre French steamer at Valetta in the evening of the 27th of October, and at midnight left the port. A magnificent vessel fitted up with an elegance and comfort for- merly unknown in such craft, very few passen- gers, and those few most agreeable ones, a trans- parent atmosphere, and a placid sea, gave us a fair promise of a prosperous and pleasant voyage, which was fully realized, for not one cross event occur- red, not one dark cloud arose to mar the general harmony. For the first two days we did not be- hold a sail, or the appearance of any living tiling upon the wide waters except ourselves; but on the third morning some visitors reached us in the shape of two little birds, land-ones, driven from
VOYAGE. 15 the African coast, which, after fluttering coquet- tishly about the rigging for a short time, perched upon the lower ropes, and at last grew so familiar as to descend to the deck, and hop about in search of flies. One of the officers of the Alexandre, carried away by his love of sport, ran for his gun, and would thoughtlessly have repaid the confi- dence placed in man by these harmless little wan- derers, by depriving them of life ; but a word from us checked the destructive impulse, and the little birds were suffered to claim our hospitality un- harmed, while the rifle and its master found better sport in a shoal of porpoises which came within gunshot a short time afterwards. At noon, on the 31st, symptoms of nearing the land became manifest in the number of ships of all sizes and classes which approached us from the direction of Alexandria. Mohammed, perched aloft in the rigging, which he had ascended with the agility of a cat, was the first to salute the African shores ; but so low and flat is the coast of Egypt that we, on the deck, could not distinguish Alexandria itself until we were quite near to the entrance of the harbour. The navigation there being difficult and dangerous, on account of the sunken rocks which abound, an Arab pilot came on board, a fine looking old Moslem, whose dark
Page 1 and 2: ,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
Page 3: '-^^Cf^
Page 7 and 8: A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
Page 9 and 10: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
Page 11 and 12: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
Page 13 and 14: A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
Page 15 and 16: CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
Page 17 and 18: CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
Page 19: ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
Page 22 and 23: 2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
Page 24 and 25: 4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
Page 26 and 27: 6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
Page 28 and 29: 8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
Page 30 and 31: 10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
Page 32 and 33: 12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
Page 36 and 37: IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
Page 38 and 39: 18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
Page 40 and 41: 20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
Page 42 and 43: 22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
Page 44 and 45: 24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
Page 46 and 47: 26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
Page 48 and 49: 28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
Page 50 and 51: 30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
Page 52 and 53: 32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
Page 54 and 55: 34 soiri
Page 56 and 57: 36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
Page 58 and 59: 38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
Page 60 and 61: 40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
Page 62 and 63: 42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
Page 64 and 65: 44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
Page 66 and 67: 4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
Page 68 and 69: 48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
Page 70 and 71: 60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
Page 72 and 73: 52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
Page 74 and 75: 54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
Page 76 and 77: 56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
Page 78 and 79: 58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
Page 80 and 81: 60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
Page 82 and 83: 62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
Page 84 and 85:
64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
Page 86 and 87:
66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
Page 88 and 89:
68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
Page 90 and 91:
70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
Page 92 and 93:
72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
Page 94 and 95:
74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
Page 96 and 97:
76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
Page 98 and 99:
78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
Page 100 and 101:
80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
Page 102 and 103:
82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
Page 104 and 105:
84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
Page 106 and 107:
86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
Page 108 and 109:
88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
Page 110 and 111:
90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
Page 112 and 113:
92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
Page 114 and 115:
94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
Page 116 and 117:
90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
Page 118 and 119:
98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
Page 120 and 121:
100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
Page 122 and 123:
102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
Page 124 and 125:
104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
Page 126 and 127:
106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
Page 128 and 129:
108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
Page 130 and 131:
110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
Page 132 and 133:
112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
Page 134 and 135:
114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
Page 136 and 137:
116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
Page 138 and 139:
118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
Page 140 and 141:
120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
Page 142 and 143:
122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
Page 144 and 145:
124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
Page 146 and 147:
126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
Page 148 and 149:
128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
Page 150 and 151:
130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
Page 152 and 153:
132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
Page 154 and 155:
134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
Page 156 and 157:
136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
Page 158 and 159:
138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
Page 160 and 161:
1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
Page 162 and 163:
142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
Page 164 and 165:
144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
Page 166 and 167:
146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
Page 168 and 169:
148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
Page 170 and 171:
150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
Page 172 and 173:
152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
Page 174 and 175:
1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
Page 176 and 177:
156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
Page 178 and 179:
158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
Page 180 and 181:
160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
Page 182 and 183:
162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
Page 184 and 185:
164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
Page 186 and 187:
166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
Page 188 and 189:
168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
Page 190 and 191:
170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
Page 192 and 193:
172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
Page 194 and 195:
174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
Page 196 and 197:
170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
Page 198 and 199:
178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
Page 200 and 201:
180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
Page 202 and 203:
182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
Page 204 and 205:
184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
Page 206 and 207:
186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
Page 208 and 209:
188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
Page 210 and 211:
190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
Page 212 and 213:
192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
Page 214 and 215:
194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
Page 216 and 217:
196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
Page 218 and 219:
198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
Page 220 and 221:
200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
Page 222 and 223:
202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
Page 224 and 225:
204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
Page 226 and 227:
20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
Page 228 and 229:
208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
Page 230 and 231:
210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
Page 233 and 234:
TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
Page 235 and 236:
TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
Page 237 and 238:
DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
Page 239 and 240:
A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
Page 241 and 242:
A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
Page 243 and 244:
A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
Page 245 and 246:
A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
Page 247 and 248:
NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
Page 249 and 250:
OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
Page 251 and 252:
ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
Page 253 and 254:
WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
Page 255 and 256:
SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
Page 257 and 258:
ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
Page 259 and 260:
BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
Page 261 and 262:
THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
Page 263 and 264:
RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
Page 265 and 266:
KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
Page 267 and 268:
THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
Page 269 and 270:
BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
Page 271 and 272:
PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
Page 273 and 274:
RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
Page 275 and 276:
TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
Page 277 and 278:
PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
Page 279 and 280:
PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
Page 281 and 282:
RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
Page 283 and 284:
ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
Page 285 and 286:
ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
Page 287 and 288:
GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
Page 289 and 290:
TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
Page 291 and 292:
VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
Page 293 and 294:
TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
Page 295 and 296:
SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
Page 297 and 298:
SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
Page 299 and 300:
TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
Page 301 and 302:
CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
Page 303 and 304:
THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
Page 305 and 306:
THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
Page 307 and 308:
PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
Page 309 and 310:
THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
Page 311 and 312:
TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
Page 313 and 314:
THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
Page 315 and 316:
RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
Page 317 and 318:
BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
Page 319 and 320:
THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
Page 321 and 322:
THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
Page 323 and 324:
AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
Page 325 and 326:
KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
Page 329 and 330:
HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
Page 331 and 332:
HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
Page 333 and 334:
AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
Page 335 and 336:
THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
Page 337 and 338:
REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
Page 339 and 340:
TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
Page 341 and 342:
CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
Page 343 and 344:
MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
Page 345 and 346:
MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
Page 347 and 348:
SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
Page 349 and 350:
THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
Page 351 and 352:
THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
Page 353 and 354:
AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
Page 355 and 356:
TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
Page 357 and 358:
TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
Page 359 and 360:
TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
Page 361 and 362:
VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
Page 363 and 364:
SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
Page 365 and 366:
THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
Page 367 and 368:
THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
Page 369 and 370:
SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
Page 371 and 372:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
Page 373 and 374:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
Page 375 and 376:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
Page 377 and 378:
ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
Page 379 and 380:
DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
Page 381 and 382:
NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
Page 383 and 384:
PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
Page 385 and 386:
! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
Page 387 and 388:
PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
Page 389 and 390:
BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
Page 391 and 392:
COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
Page 393 and 394:
IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
Page 395 and 396:
SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
Page 397 and 398:
OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
Page 399:
RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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