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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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288 THE RHAMESSEIUM.<br />

Rhamesseium is very gr<strong>and</strong>ioso. There are <strong>the</strong><br />

ruins <strong>of</strong> a peristyled court, with pilasters, against<br />

which are placed colossal st<strong>and</strong>ing statues, with<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir arms crossed over <strong>the</strong>ir bosoms, <strong>and</strong> bearing<br />

in one h<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> crosier, <strong>and</strong> in <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong><br />

flagellum : <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re is a noble hypostyle, or hall<br />

<strong>of</strong> columns, covered with <strong>the</strong> usual sculptures;<br />

<strong>and</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> still entire, formed <strong>of</strong> enor-<br />

mous blocks <strong>of</strong> s<strong>and</strong>s<strong>to</strong>ne. And what is rare,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are no Arab hovels encumbering <strong>the</strong>se fine<br />

remains ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> only rubbish scattered about,<br />

consists in <strong>the</strong> vast fragments that have been<br />

rent from <strong>the</strong>ir original positions, <strong>and</strong> lie here<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re in ruinous confusion, mingled with<br />

monstrous portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wonderful statue, each<br />

morsel large enough <strong>to</strong> furnish materials for <strong>the</strong><br />

labours <strong>of</strong> a modern sculp<strong>to</strong>r. Amidst <strong>the</strong> ruins<br />

<strong>of</strong> Western Thebes, nei<strong>the</strong>r obelisks nor avenues<br />

<strong>of</strong> sphinxes remain, <strong>and</strong> it is <strong>the</strong>refore a question<br />

if any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> former ever existed <strong>the</strong>re ;<br />

<strong>the</strong> sight<br />

<strong>of</strong> two mutilated sphinxes <strong>of</strong> breccia overturned<br />

<strong>and</strong> prostrate in <strong>the</strong> dust, convinced me that<br />

<strong>the</strong>re had once been those noble adjuncts <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> approach <strong>to</strong> a temple on <strong>the</strong> western bank.<br />

* * * * *<br />

From <strong>the</strong> palaces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient Thebans <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir <strong>to</strong>mbs, <strong>the</strong> transition is short ; within <strong>the</strong>

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