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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR.<br />

capital, a phalanx <strong>of</strong> colossi ! But<br />

it was only<br />

when we had threaded our way through <strong>the</strong><br />

labyrinth <strong>of</strong> huts <strong>and</strong> mangers which choke up<br />

<strong>the</strong> once fair proportions <strong>of</strong> this magnificent ruin,<br />

<strong>and</strong> had arrived at <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn extremity where<br />

<strong>the</strong> great entrance is situated, that we could form<br />

a just conception <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> massive gr<strong>and</strong>eur <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Temple <strong>of</strong> Luxor, or underst<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> precise<br />

nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old <strong>and</strong> genuine <strong>Egypt</strong>ian architec-<br />

ture (by w^hicli I mean that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Pharaohs) as applied <strong>to</strong> sacred structures. There<br />

st<strong>and</strong>s <strong>the</strong> great Propylon (two masses <strong>of</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />

in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> truncated pyramids, covered with<br />

sculptured battle-scenes <strong>and</strong> hieroglyphics ),<br />

flanking <strong>the</strong> great entrance gate, on each side<br />

<strong>of</strong> which is seated a colossal statue <strong>of</strong> granite now<br />

buried <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> shoulders in rubbish, <strong>and</strong> bearing<br />

on <strong>the</strong>ir mutilated countenances traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Persian Conqueror's vain attempt <strong>to</strong> destroy <strong>the</strong><br />

enduring work <strong>of</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>ian h<strong>and</strong>s. Think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

aw^e which <strong>the</strong>se mute memorials <strong>of</strong> races long<br />

since extinct must inspire, w^hen one remembers<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y have been ruins since <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong><br />

Cambyses, <strong>and</strong> have been seated unchanged <strong>the</strong>re<br />

through long ages <strong>of</strong> change, as though watching<br />

for <strong>the</strong> return <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir false gods <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> sanctu-<br />

ary, while <strong>the</strong> Persian, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Macedonian, <strong>and</strong>

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