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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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338 EXCAVATIONS.<br />

ga<strong>the</strong>red from our experience in <strong>the</strong> Upper<br />

Country. It was from <strong>the</strong>se gentlemen that we<br />

learned <strong>the</strong> late ministerial changes in Engl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> reinstatement <strong>of</strong> Sir Robert Peel in<strong>to</strong><br />

power. These are pleasant rencontres when one<br />

has been cut <strong>of</strong>f from all European communica-<br />

tion for so many weeks as we have been ;<br />

<strong>and</strong> it<br />

is really surprising how glad strangers appear <strong>to</strong><br />

be <strong>to</strong> see each o<strong>the</strong>r under <strong>the</strong>se circumstances,<br />

<strong>and</strong> how extremely communicative everybody<br />

grows in a few minutes.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 5th <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r was unpleasantly cold<br />

<strong>and</strong> cloudy, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind blew with such vio-<br />

lence up <strong>the</strong> river that our rowers could make no<br />

head against it, <strong>and</strong> we were obliged <strong>to</strong> remain<br />

<strong>the</strong> greater part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day tied <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> eastern<br />

bank, under a stupendous mountain, or ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

cliff, called Sheikh Haridi, <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> which pre-<br />

sents numerous excavations, in all probability<br />

containing <strong>to</strong>mbs. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se excavations in<br />

particular, which, from <strong>the</strong> perpendicular form <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> cliff, is most difficult <strong>to</strong> approach, retains evi-<br />

dent traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> commencement <strong>of</strong> a rock-cut<br />

temple, or speos, nearly as large as Ibsamboul.<br />

Three entrances are pierced in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> living rock,<br />

<strong>and</strong> enormous rough pillars support <strong>the</strong> weight <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> superimpending mountain. Who knows but

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