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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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264 ROOM OMBOS.<br />

<strong>and</strong> mutilate <strong>the</strong>m. The action <strong>of</strong> fire must<br />

have been put in<strong>to</strong> requisition <strong>to</strong> split <strong>the</strong> im-<br />

mense blocks <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong> temple is composed.<br />

Besides <strong>the</strong> violence <strong>of</strong> ruthless destroyers, Koom<br />

Ombos has suffered much from ano<strong>the</strong>r cause;<br />

for <strong>the</strong> wall <strong>of</strong> circumvallation which <strong>the</strong> ancient<br />

<strong>Egypt</strong>ians opposed <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> incursions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Desert<br />

having been thrown down, <strong>the</strong> s<strong>and</strong> has gradually<br />

drifted in upon it, until <strong>the</strong> once stately edifice is<br />

now more than half buried beneath <strong>the</strong> smooth<br />

yellow mounds that have accumulated on all<br />

sides. Koom Ombos is a P<strong>to</strong>lemaic monument,<br />

<strong>and</strong> only counts two thous<strong>and</strong> years !<br />

I need not<br />

tell you, <strong>the</strong>refore, that it is classed among <strong>the</strong><br />

depreciated remains <strong>of</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>ian art, <strong>and</strong> by com-<br />

petent judges is considered in <strong>the</strong> light <strong>of</strong> a<br />

modern inferiority.<br />

Our next halt w^as at Ghebel Silsilis, those<br />

marvellous s<strong>and</strong>s<strong>to</strong>ne quarries which have fur-<br />

nished materials for almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monuments<br />

<strong>of</strong> Upper <strong>Egypt</strong>. They lie for a considerable<br />

distance along both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> river, which<br />

is narrower here than in any o<strong>the</strong>r part, <strong>and</strong><br />

exhibit long galleries cut in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rock from<br />

whence w^ere hewn <strong>the</strong> vast blocks wdth which<br />

<strong>the</strong> Pharaohs, <strong>the</strong> P<strong>to</strong>lemies, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caesars<br />

successively constructed <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>temples</strong> <strong>and</strong> pa-

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