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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 37<br />

<strong>the</strong>m for sale. There s<strong>to</strong>od a serpent-charmer,<br />

with a large living snake coiled twice round his<br />

neck, <strong>and</strong> a bag full <strong>of</strong> lively vipers in each h<strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong>fering his services <strong>to</strong> whoever wished <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

premises <strong>to</strong> be cleared <strong>of</strong> such unwelcome guests.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place were ga<strong>the</strong>red <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

twenty or thirty donkeys, all ready caparisoned<br />

for hire, with high-fronted saddles covered with<br />

red morocco <strong>and</strong> carpets spread over <strong>the</strong>m, fit <strong>to</strong><br />

carry gentleman or lady ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir noisy drivers<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ing by, vociferating among <strong>the</strong>mselves as<br />

Arabs only can do, <strong>the</strong>ir dark slender limbs<br />

covered merely with a blue cot<strong>to</strong>n shirt, <strong>the</strong><br />

sleeves <strong>of</strong> which are gracefully drawn up with<br />

cords that cross <strong>the</strong> shoulders, <strong>the</strong>ir swarthy<br />

faces surmounted by a voluminous white turban,<br />

scarcely one among <strong>the</strong>m possessing two eyes,<br />

such are <strong>the</strong> ravages <strong>of</strong> ophthalmia in this clime !<br />

And lo ! immediately<br />

facing my window rises <strong>the</strong><br />

tall minaret <strong>of</strong> a neighbouring mosque, <strong>and</strong> from<br />

its upper gallery sounded <strong>the</strong> deep-<strong>to</strong>ned cry <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Muezzin calling <strong>the</strong> Faithful <strong>to</strong> prayer<br />

sounds long unheard by me, yet well remember-<br />

ed, <strong>and</strong> bringing with <strong>the</strong>m happy associations<br />

<strong>of</strong> my first w<strong>and</strong>erings in <strong>the</strong> East ! And<br />

—<br />

now<br />

rushed by a half-naked Arab, running at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p<br />

<strong>of</strong> his speed, <strong>and</strong> loudly cracking a long whip <strong>to</strong>

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