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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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148 AN ANTIQUARY.<br />

liar <strong>to</strong> old <strong>Egypt</strong>ian architecture, <strong>the</strong> first prin-<br />

ciple <strong>of</strong> which appears <strong>to</strong> have been strength<br />

<strong>and</strong> stability.<br />

The view through <strong>the</strong> sole remaining propy-<br />

lon at Luxor is obstructed by a shabby mosque,<br />

which has been constructed within what was<br />

once <strong>the</strong> peristyled court <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> temple. As<br />

it was Friday, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> male inhabitants <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> place were at <strong>the</strong>ir devotions, <strong>and</strong> just as<br />

we were about <strong>to</strong> quit <strong>the</strong> scene, <strong>the</strong> whole<br />

congregation poured out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mosque <strong>and</strong><br />

surrounded us. Such a ragged miserable set<br />

<strong>of</strong> beings ! <strong>the</strong>ir appearance quite harmonized<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Arab name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place — El Kusr<br />

" <strong>the</strong> Ruins," which has been perverted by<br />

Europeans in<strong>to</strong> Luxor.<br />

We had been apprized that Signer Castel-<br />

lari, a Roman who resides at Luxor for <strong>the</strong><br />

purpose <strong>of</strong> collecting antiquities, would soon<br />

make himself known <strong>to</strong> us, <strong>and</strong> we had also<br />

been cautioned about <strong>the</strong> prices he would ask<br />

us for his objMs de curiosite ; so, thus forewarned,<br />

we deemed ourselves forearmed :<br />

but<br />

<strong>the</strong> wily<br />

Italian was <strong>to</strong>o many for us— " he surrounded<br />

us," as an Irishman would say. First <strong>of</strong> all,<br />

he most courteously came <strong>to</strong> welcome us on<br />

shore, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n he very obligingly <strong>and</strong> cleverly

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