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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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WADI HALFA. 195<br />

samboul, <strong>and</strong> as <strong>the</strong> breeze was both brisk <strong>and</strong><br />

fair, we wouhl not tarry, but contented ourselves<br />

for <strong>the</strong> moment with a passing coup d'ceil <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

stupendous facades cut out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> living rock, (for<br />

those far-famed sanctuaries <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>ian dei-<br />

ties are excavations <strong>and</strong> not constructions). Four<br />

sitting giants guard <strong>the</strong> portals <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great<br />

temple, <strong>and</strong> six st<strong>and</strong>ing figures <strong>of</strong> smaller di-<br />

mensions, but still colossal, those <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lesser<br />

one. The appearance <strong>of</strong> those gigantic sculp-<br />

tures in this far solitude, surrounded <strong>and</strong> sur-<br />

mounted by <strong>the</strong> rude rock <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong>y form a<br />

part, is truly extraordinary. Around <strong>the</strong>m no-<br />

thing is <strong>to</strong> be seen but <strong>the</strong> barren s<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

desert, before <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> ever-flowing river ! No<br />

city could ever have existed on this spot. What<br />

manner <strong>of</strong> people were <strong>the</strong>y, who could have pro-<br />

digally created such magnificent efforts <strong>of</strong> human<br />

labour <strong>and</strong> art in such a solitude ?<br />

This morning, <strong>the</strong> 10th <strong>of</strong> December, <strong>and</strong> ex-<br />

actly one month since our departure from Cairo,<br />

we anchored at Wadi Haifa, <strong>the</strong> extreme point<br />

<strong>of</strong> our peregrinations, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> threshold as it<br />

were, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Second Cataract. We have now fol-<br />

lowed <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nile for a thous<strong>and</strong> miles<br />

from Alex<strong>and</strong>ria <strong>to</strong> this place, <strong>and</strong> not one tribu-<br />

tary stream has fallen in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> great river during

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