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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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78 CAIRO.<br />

<strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> tribute due from all travellers <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

wonders <strong>of</strong> art, <strong>and</strong> carrying <strong>the</strong> homage <strong>of</strong> my<br />

impatience, curiosity, <strong>and</strong> admiration <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ve-<br />

nerable feet <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>the</strong> elder-born <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monu-<br />

ments <strong>of</strong> antiquity. The truth is, that <strong>the</strong> waters<br />

from <strong>the</strong> late inundation still cover part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plain<br />

that intervenes between Cairo <strong>and</strong> Ghizeh, so that<br />

until <strong>the</strong>y subside, <strong>the</strong> Pyramids cannot be ap-<br />

proached by <strong>the</strong> direct road. To get at <strong>the</strong>m<br />

now, a circui<strong>to</strong>us route which doubles <strong>the</strong> dis-<br />

tance must be taken ; <strong>and</strong> this would entail upon<br />

us, in this season <strong>of</strong> short days, <strong>the</strong> necessity <strong>of</strong><br />

passing a night in <strong>the</strong> adjacent <strong>to</strong>mbs,—a plan<br />

<strong>to</strong> be avoided for many reasons which <strong>to</strong>uch<br />

travellers <strong>to</strong>o nearly, in this l<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> superfluous<br />

animation, <strong>to</strong> be wholly overlooked by <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

We have <strong>the</strong>refore judged it advisable <strong>to</strong> defer<br />

our visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pyramids until our return from<br />

Upper <strong>Egypt</strong>; <strong>and</strong>, although I at first objected<br />

<strong>to</strong> this arrangement, in my natural impatience <strong>to</strong><br />

see all that is within my reach with as little<br />

delay as possible, I now really think it <strong>the</strong> plan<br />

best adapted <strong>to</strong> ensure my complete enjoyment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wonders that we are about <strong>to</strong> visit, by<br />

reserving <strong>the</strong> greatest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m all for <strong>the</strong> last.<br />

This, <strong>the</strong>n, is <strong>the</strong> reason <strong>of</strong> our having apparently<br />

given <strong>the</strong> go-by <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pharaohs for <strong>the</strong> Caliphs,

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