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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH.<br />

<strong>the</strong> French caricature <strong>of</strong> an enthusiastic horti-<br />

culturist doing <strong>the</strong> honours <strong>of</strong> his garden <strong>to</strong> an<br />

unhicky visi<strong>to</strong>r, whose floral tastes were not such<br />

as <strong>to</strong> render <strong>the</strong> exhibition at all acceptable,<br />

<strong>and</strong> who, while expatiating aloud on <strong>the</strong> plea-<br />

sure he is deriving from his host's minute ex-<br />

planations <strong>of</strong> everything, murmurs aside in a<br />

<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>of</strong> despair, " Mais il ne me fera pas grace<br />

dhm seul oignon ! " Make <strong>the</strong> application as<br />

I intend, <strong>and</strong> prepare yourself <strong>to</strong> act <strong>the</strong> vic-<br />

tim's part, for be assured that I, in my turn,<br />

"<br />

ne vous feral pas grace (Tun seul temple !<br />

And nothing that I have seen in all my<br />

travels ever appeared <strong>to</strong> me more sublime than<br />

<strong>the</strong> temple <strong>of</strong> Esneh — I ought <strong>to</strong> say that<br />

portion <strong>of</strong> it which remains st<strong>and</strong>ing ; for that<br />

which, from its space, I at first supposed <strong>to</strong><br />

be <strong>the</strong> temple itself, proved <strong>to</strong> be only <strong>the</strong><br />

pronaos, or portico. Here we found none <strong>of</strong><br />

those drawbacks which deface <strong>the</strong> general view<br />

<strong>of</strong> Luxor in <strong>the</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> Arab habitations in-<br />

corporated with its stately columns. All is<br />

perfect— walls, ro<strong>of</strong>, floor,— <strong>and</strong> no accumula-<br />

tion <strong>of</strong> s<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> diminish <strong>the</strong> effect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

l<strong>of</strong>ty pillars, <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re are twenty-four,<br />

disposed in four rows <strong>of</strong> six each, with capi-<br />

tals each differing from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, being varia-

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