A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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278 ARAB GREETINGS. CHAPTER XIV. ARAB GREETINGS. CHRISTMAS CHEER. TIPSY TURKEY. THE TOCAL MEMNON. — MEDINET HABOU. PHARAONIC ARCHITEC- TURE. EGYPTIAN MYTHOLOGY. THE RHAMESSEIUM. TOMBS. THE ASSASSIEF. RELICS. — BIBAN EL MOLUK.— BELZONl's TOMB. THE HALL OF BEAUTY. BRUCE's TOMB. THE HARP- ERS. ALLEGORIES. AMULETS. Thebes, Christmas-day. Last night we anchored off Luxor, and imme- diately opposite to the splendid colonnade of that palace-temple which had become a ruin before the blessed era commenced of which to-day is the anniversary. I had no sooner left my cabin this morning, than, to my surprise, Reis All, his son Salem, Hadgee Mustapha, and all our sailors, came one after the other to wish me, in very good English, " a merry Christmas ! " Mohammed had been tutoring them all yesterday to learn the words by heart, and he told me to-day that some of the men got up three times in the night, and awoke
CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear them repeat their lesson ; so fearful were they of not making themselves miderstood by me. They succeeded, however, to admiration and I was both amused and touched by the ear- nestness of their salutation, and by hearing those familiar sounds echoed by Arab lips to a Chris- tian stranger in the far solitude of Thebes. Our Christmas-day was rendered very happy by receiving a large budget of letters forwarded to us by the English Consul at Cairo. They are the first letters that have reached us from Eu- rope since we have been in Egypt, and their contents for a while cheated us into the belief that we were not divided by so many lands and seas from those most dear to us, and whose thoughts we knew would be with us this day. We have kept up the good old English custom of good cheer at Christmas time, as far as lay in our power, by giving no less than three plum-pudding dinners to-day—one to our crew ; a second to the Reis, his son, our cook. Dragoman, and servants ; and the third to ourselves— all of them excellent, thanks to Mohammed's good catering. I never tasted a better turkey than he gave us ; and, upon complimenting him on its great delicacy, I learned from him the Egyptian secret of rendering the flesh particularly tender. Half an hour before the ;
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,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
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CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
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CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
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ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
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2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
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4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
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6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
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8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
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10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
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12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
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IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
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18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
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20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
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22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
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24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
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26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
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28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
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30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
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32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
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34 soiri
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36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
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38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
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40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
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42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
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44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
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4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
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48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
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60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
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52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
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54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
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56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
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58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
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60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
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62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
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64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
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66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
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68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
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70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
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72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
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74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
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76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
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78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
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80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
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82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
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84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
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86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
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88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
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90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
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92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
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94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
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90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
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98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
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100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
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102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
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104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
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106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
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108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
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110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
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112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
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114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
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116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
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118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
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120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
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122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
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124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
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126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
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128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
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130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
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132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
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134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
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136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
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138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
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1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
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142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
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144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
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146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
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148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
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150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
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152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
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1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
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156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
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158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
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160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
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162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
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164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
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166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
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168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
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172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
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174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
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178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
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180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
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182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
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184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
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186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
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188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
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190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
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192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
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194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
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196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
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198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
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200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
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202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
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204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
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20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
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208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
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210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
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DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
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A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
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A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
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NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
Page 249 and 250: OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
Page 251 and 252: ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
Page 253 and 254: WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
Page 255 and 256: SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
Page 257 and 258: ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
Page 259 and 260: BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
Page 261 and 262: THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
Page 263 and 264: RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
Page 265 and 266: KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
Page 267 and 268: THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
Page 269 and 270: BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
Page 271 and 272: PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
Page 273 and 274: RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
Page 275 and 276: TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
Page 277 and 278: PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
Page 279 and 280: PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
Page 281 and 282: RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
Page 283 and 284: ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
Page 285 and 286: ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
Page 287 and 288: GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
Page 289 and 290: TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
Page 291 and 292: VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
Page 293 and 294: TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
Page 295 and 296: SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
Page 297 and 298: SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
Page 299: TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
Page 303 and 304: THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
Page 305 and 306: THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
Page 307 and 308: PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
Page 309 and 310: THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
Page 311 and 312: TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
Page 313 and 314: THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
Page 315 and 316: RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
Page 317 and 318: BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
Page 319 and 320: THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
Page 321 and 322: THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
Page 323 and 324: AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
Page 325 and 326: KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
Page 329 and 330: HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
Page 331 and 332: HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
Page 333 and 334: AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
Page 335 and 336: THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
Page 337 and 338: REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
Page 339 and 340: TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
Page 341 and 342: CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
Page 343 and 344: MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
Page 345 and 346: MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
Page 347 and 348: SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
Page 349 and 350: THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
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THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
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AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
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TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
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TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
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TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
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VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
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SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
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THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
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THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
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SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
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DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
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NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
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PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
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! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
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PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
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BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
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COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
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IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
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SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
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OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
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RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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