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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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24 CEMETERY.<br />

run will write, when will <strong>the</strong>y leave behind <strong>the</strong>m<br />

evidence that <strong>the</strong>y have not travelled in vain, <strong>and</strong><br />

that <strong>the</strong> solemn <strong>and</strong> almost awful presence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

oldest monuments in <strong>the</strong> world has replaced<br />

such schoolboy trivialities by higher inspirations,<br />

—nobler, <strong>and</strong> more appropriate reflections ?<br />

Returning from <strong>the</strong> pillar, we passed by <strong>the</strong><br />

great Moslem cemetery <strong>of</strong> Alex<strong>and</strong>ria, a dreary<br />

place <strong>of</strong> s<strong>to</strong>nes, far spreading around, without a<br />

blade <strong>of</strong> grass, or a cypress-tree, <strong>to</strong> break <strong>the</strong><br />

burning mono<strong>to</strong>ny <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> s<strong>and</strong>y soil. Two or<br />

three funeral processions were approaching it<br />

<strong>the</strong> bodies, laid upon a wooden tray, <strong>and</strong> covered<br />

with a cot<strong>to</strong>n cloth, were irreverently borne along<br />

at a quick trot, upon <strong>the</strong> shoulders <strong>of</strong> four men,<br />

<strong>and</strong> behind followed <strong>the</strong> mourners, some chant-<br />

ing, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs uttering <strong>the</strong> conventional funeral<br />

howl ; but <strong>the</strong>re appeared <strong>to</strong> be no real woe in<br />

<strong>the</strong> thing, — an indecent haste <strong>to</strong> be rid <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

lifeless bur<strong>the</strong>n seemed <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong> characteristics<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ac<strong>to</strong>rs in <strong>the</strong> scene.<br />

From Pompey's Pillar <strong>to</strong> Cleopatra's Needles<br />

<strong>the</strong> transition is inevitable when one is in <strong>the</strong><br />

course <strong>of</strong> sight-seeing. These latter interested<br />

me far more than <strong>the</strong> former, inasmuch as <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are thoroughly <strong>Egypt</strong>ian, having been brought<br />

<strong>to</strong> Alex<strong>and</strong>ria from Ileliopolis, where INIoeris<br />

;

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