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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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342 STABL ANTAR.<br />

in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> solid rock, which are supposed <strong>to</strong> have<br />

been devoted <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mummies <strong>of</strong> wolves ; hence<br />

probaby <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> Lycopolis, by which E'Siout<br />

was known in <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancients.<br />

The road <strong>to</strong> Stabl Antar is rugged <strong>and</strong> difficult<br />

<strong>of</strong> access in <strong>the</strong> latter part, but our wonderful<br />

donkeys stepped up <strong>the</strong> craggy path like gazelles<br />

at last, when we reached a very formidable look-<br />

ing ascent, <strong>the</strong> two Saises, who had never quitted<br />

my side, lifted me from my saddle before I knew<br />

what <strong>the</strong>y were about, <strong>and</strong> carried me between<br />

<strong>the</strong>m in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> temple. The view from <strong>the</strong>se<br />

heights is enchanting; <strong>the</strong> environs <strong>of</strong> E'Siout<br />

are charming, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn itself, with its nume-<br />

rous minarets <strong>and</strong> orange gardens, forms a<br />

beautiful object in <strong>the</strong> scene. Besides, E'Siout<br />

is, after Cairo, <strong>the</strong> most considerable <strong>to</strong>wn in<br />

<strong>Egypt</strong>, as we afterwards found when we rode<br />

through its spacious <strong>and</strong> populous bazaars ; <strong>and</strong><br />

although <strong>the</strong>re is no architecture <strong>to</strong> be seen in<br />

it comparable <strong>to</strong> that <strong>of</strong> Cairo, where every street<br />

is a picture, yet <strong>the</strong>re are very nice looking<br />

detached houses surrounded by gardens, which<br />

give an idea <strong>of</strong> ease <strong>and</strong> comfort rarely <strong>to</strong> be met<br />

with in this half-barbarous country.<br />

At one o'clock we had terminated our sight-<br />

seeing, <strong>and</strong> we found Reis Ali very anxious <strong>to</strong><br />

;

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