A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the surface of the water that we could plainly discover their ugly forms. I am in hopes of being able to procure some crocodiles' eggs up the country to bring home as a curiosity, Good niffht ig] !
PASSING GLIMPSES. 157 CHAPTER VIII. PASSING GLIMPSES. — PREPARATIONS. ES-SOUAN. QUARRIES OF SYENE.— DESERT CE3IETERY — THE BERBERS.— MIXED POPULA- TION. — PLEASURES OF POLYGAMY. ELEPHANTINA. THE FIRST CATARACT. REIS HASSAN. SUCCESS. MAHATTA. SLAVE BOAT. VIEW OF PHIL^. Es-souan, Nov. 26, 1S45. On leaving Esneh our good wind again be- friended us, and enabled us to scud swiftly along without stopping anywhere. We passed by the great Temple of Edfou, which is at some distance from the river on the western bank, and had a lovely view of its propylon just as the sun was setting behind it; but the temple itself we were unable to distinguish, perhaps from the circumstance of an Arab village occu- pying its roof! Edfou is reputed to be one of the most perfect specimens of an Egyptian temple extant, yet such are the uses—I ought rather to say abuses— to which these magni- ficent remains are put in this semi-barbarous country. On the same side of the Nile, but at some distance from Edfou, are the famous
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,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
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'-^^Cf^
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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
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CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
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CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
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ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
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2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
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4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
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6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
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8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
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10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
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12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
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IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
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18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
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20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
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22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
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24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
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26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
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28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
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30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
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32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
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34 soiri
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36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
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38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
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40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
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42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
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44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
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4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
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48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
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60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
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52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
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54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
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56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
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58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
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60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
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62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
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64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
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66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
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68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
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70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
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72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
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74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
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76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
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78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
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80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
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82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
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84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
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86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
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88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
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90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
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92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
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94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
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90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
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98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
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100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
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102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
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104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
Page 126 and 127: 106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
Page 128 and 129: 108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
Page 130 and 131: 110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
Page 132 and 133: 112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
Page 134 and 135: 114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
Page 136 and 137: 116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
Page 138 and 139: 118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
Page 140 and 141: 120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
Page 142 and 143: 122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
Page 144 and 145: 124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
Page 146 and 147: 126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
Page 148 and 149: 128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
Page 150 and 151: 130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
Page 152 and 153: 132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
Page 154 and 155: 134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
Page 156 and 157: 136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
Page 158 and 159: 138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
Page 160 and 161: 1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
Page 162 and 163: 142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
Page 164 and 165: 144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
Page 166 and 167: 146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
Page 168 and 169: 148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
Page 170 and 171: 150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
Page 172 and 173: 152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
Page 174 and 175: 1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
Page 178 and 179: 158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
Page 180 and 181: 160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
Page 182 and 183: 162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
Page 184 and 185: 164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
Page 186 and 187: 166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
Page 188 and 189: 168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
Page 190 and 191: 170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
Page 192 and 193: 172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
Page 194 and 195: 174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
Page 196 and 197: 170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
Page 198 and 199: 178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
Page 200 and 201: 180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
Page 202 and 203: 182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
Page 204 and 205: 184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
Page 206 and 207: 186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
Page 208 and 209: 188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
Page 210 and 211: 190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
Page 212 and 213: 192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
Page 214 and 215: 194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
Page 216 and 217: 196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
Page 218 and 219: 198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
Page 220 and 221: 200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
Page 222 and 223: 202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
Page 224 and 225: 204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
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20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
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208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
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210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
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DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
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A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
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A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
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NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
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OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
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ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
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WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
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SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
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ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
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BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
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THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
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RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
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KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
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THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
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BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
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PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
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RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
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TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
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PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
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PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
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RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
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ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
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ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
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GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
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TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
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VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
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TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
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SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
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SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
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TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
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CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
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PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
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THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
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TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
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THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
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RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
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BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
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THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
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THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
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AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
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KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
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AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
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THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
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REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
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TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
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CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
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MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
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MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
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SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
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THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
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THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
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AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
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TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
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TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
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TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
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VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
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SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
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THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
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THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
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SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
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ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
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DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
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NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
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PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
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! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
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PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
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BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
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COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
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IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
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SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
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OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
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RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neith
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