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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. 69<br />

<strong>and</strong> justify <strong>the</strong> preeminence which is ascribed <strong>to</strong><br />

it over <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r mosques <strong>of</strong> Cairo.<br />

The stains <strong>of</strong> Sultan Hassan's blood, murdered<br />

within <strong>the</strong> sanctuary by his Memlooks, are shown<br />

upon <strong>the</strong> beautifully tesselated marble pave-<br />

ment ; his <strong>to</strong>mb occupies <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

interior enclosure, <strong>and</strong> on <strong>the</strong> head <strong>of</strong> it is laid <strong>the</strong><br />

largest <strong>and</strong> most splendid copy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Koran that<br />

I have yet seen, magnificently illuminated, like<br />

<strong>the</strong> Christian missals <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same epoch, in gold<br />

<strong>and</strong> colours. But <strong>the</strong> embroidered covering over<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sultan's <strong>to</strong>mb is faded <strong>and</strong> moth-eaten, <strong>the</strong><br />

pavement is broken <strong>and</strong> degraded in many places,<br />

<strong>and</strong> here, as everywhere else in Cairo, a melan-<br />

choly air <strong>of</strong> neglect <strong>and</strong> decay is visible, which<br />

makes one long <strong>to</strong> organize a wholesale system<br />

<strong>of</strong> res<strong>to</strong>ration <strong>and</strong> purification, <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> send forth<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> city masons, <strong>and</strong> painters, <strong>and</strong><br />

glaziers, <strong>to</strong> rescue from perdition so much that is<br />

worthy <strong>of</strong> being preserved, but which, if things<br />

remain in <strong>the</strong> state <strong>the</strong>y now are, must inevitably<br />

perish ere long.<br />

Still more melancholy is <strong>the</strong> picture <strong>of</strong> desola-<br />

tion exhibited at <strong>the</strong> mosque <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caliph<br />

Ahmed-ebn-e'-Tayloon, called by <strong>the</strong> Caireens<br />

Gam a Tayloon, a structure which ought <strong>to</strong> be an<br />

object <strong>of</strong> veneration <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, as it was <strong>the</strong> first

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