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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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THE pasha's donkeys. 341<br />

<strong>and</strong>, for my own part, I found <strong>the</strong> delightful<br />

elastic amble <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> one I rode preferable <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> paces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best lady's horse in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Two Saises, or grooms, attended us on foot, <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> graceful costume <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se men w^as quite<br />

worthy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> beautiful animals <strong>the</strong>y accom-<br />

panied ;<br />

close vests <strong>of</strong> white cot<strong>to</strong>n braided, very<br />

full drawers, descending only <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> knee, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

same materials, an ample blue garment worn over<br />

all, <strong>the</strong> loose sleeves <strong>of</strong> which were gracefully<br />

drawn up with thick cords <strong>of</strong> dark blue silk <strong>and</strong><br />

gold, which, crossing over <strong>the</strong> back, terminated in<br />

large tassels on <strong>the</strong> shoulder, large snow-white<br />

turbans, <strong>and</strong> red slippers. The Pasha's Ghawass,<br />

enveloped in a large white bournous, rode before<br />

us ; <strong>and</strong> thus escorted we proceeded <strong>to</strong> visit<br />

Stabl Antar, by which name <strong>the</strong> excavations in<br />

<strong>the</strong> rocks, at about three miles distance from <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn, are know^n. Why <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

famous hero <strong>of</strong> Arab song <strong>and</strong> romance should<br />

have been bes<strong>to</strong>wed upon this spot, I know not<br />

unless in some <strong>of</strong> his fabulous exploits he may<br />

have stabled his steeds in <strong>the</strong> rude rock-cut<br />

<strong>temples</strong> whose general appearance <strong>and</strong> hiero-<br />

glyphic embellishment bespeak an antiquity far<br />

more remote than anything we have yet seen.<br />

There are also extraordinary mummy pits cut<br />

;

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