A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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374 MOHAMMED. ccssible to good feeling, and only to be led by the lash. We have treated them like men, and they have behaved to us like good and grateful men. As for our dragoman, Mohammed Abdul Atti, he has been beyond all praise. To his excellent management and forethought are entirely owing the creature comforts we have enjoyed during our voyage; not only we have wanted for nothing, but we have had everything that the most fastidious appetite could require, and all ar- ranged with as much nicety and elegance, and the service of the table performed with as much quiet regularity as it could have been in the best appointed house. He has so much method and order that he finds time for everything, and gets over the business of two or three servants without ever appearing to be in a hurry ; and his predilection for English people and English cus- toms renders him the most desirable person possible to accompany English travellers in the East. Not only has he been our dragoman, but caterer, maitre dliotel, and confectioner; and under circumstances of peculiar difficulty, from the misconduct of one of our French servants, which lasted during the whole voyage, and was charac- terised by an inveterate malignity towards him
RETURN TO CAIRO. 375 that had neither motive or excuse, he showed a good sense and forbearance which have gained him our esteem as well as our approbation. After passing the night off Bedrechein, we dropped down the river this morning to Old Cairo ; and while Mohammed has gone to Grand Cairo to secure rooms for us at Shepheard's Hotel and to bring back a carriage to transport us thither, I am finishing my dispatch which (as I shall certainly not find time to wTite for many days to come) will be evidence to you that we have terminated our Nile voyage in safety, and are once more in the City of the Caliphs ! END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. LONDON Printed by S. K- J. Benti.ey, Wilson, and Fley, Hangor House, Shoe Lane. :
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,N NYU IFA LIBRARY 3 1162 04538672
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'-^^Cf^
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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOM
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appa
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. vii duce me t
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A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. IX fresh as t
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CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPT
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CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. Ghebel Ad
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ILLUSTRATIONS. Facade of the Great
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2 MALTA. commander, Lieutenant A pi
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4 CASAL CRENDI. sites that the isla
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6 HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or
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8 PHCENICIAN IDOLS. nicians were th
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10 MELITA. You have only to look ov
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12 PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast
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14 VOYAGE. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE. ARRI
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IG ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson tu
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18 LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a ban
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20 ALEXANDRIA. ing by a drive to Po
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22 pompey's pillar. ried by their m
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24 CEMETERY. run will write, when w
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26 ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA. remains. The
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28 FIELD OF BATTLE. rially facilita
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30 FORTIFICATIONS. from the misrule
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32 DATE-PALMS. all imitations of th
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34 soiri
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36 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. them by their
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38 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. clear the
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40 THE NILE. banks of the canal, ta
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42 THE NILE. a crowd of glorious as
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44 SUNSET ON THE NILE. be worse tha
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4G EGYPTIAN DONKEYS. ing of nine pe
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48 ORIENTAL COSTUME. men and things
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60 THE CITADEL. of all sorts of eat
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52 VIEW OF CAIRO. feathers, and a b
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54 RENCONTRE. order of Mohammed Ali
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56 VIGE-REGAL ESCORT. loped two men
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58 THE MEMLOOKS. One of the descend
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60 THE MEMLOOKS. ly attempted to ma
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62 THE MEMLOOKS. accession of Moham
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64 MASSACRE OF THE MEMLOOKS. the ci
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66 AMYN BEY. to calculate either di
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68 MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN. airy gr
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70 GAMA TAYLOON. mosque erected on
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72 GAMA TAYLOON. a staircase windin
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74 MOSQUE OF AMR. private edifices
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76 MOSQUE OF AMR. liis favour. It w
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78 CAIRO. them the tribute due from
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80 CAIRO MISSION. making in turning
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82 PLAGUES OF EGYPT. weather is fin
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84 MOHAMMED BEY DEFTERDAR. rejoicin
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86 BRIDAL PALACE. would tell you no
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88 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. ance of tha
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90 WEDDING PROCESSIONS. And now cam
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92 EL KAITBEY. stand outside of the
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94 OVERLAND MAILS. liim to take a n
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90 AFFECTING EVENT. for ever, on th
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98 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. unlovely in th
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100 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. aud would ena
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102 RAILROAD TO SUEZ. above all he
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104 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. is perhap
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106 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. nearly on
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108 DEPARTURE. tions must be circum
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110 DEPARTURE. we would only enjoy,
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112 THE SWIFT. for which the countr
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114 ARAB CREW. and our trusty inter
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116 ARAB MUSIC. frugal supper, they
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118 RIVER SCENERY. eternal sands of
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120 A BREEZE. servants, however goo
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122 A BREEZE. dispassionately to th
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124 EGYPTIAN CAVALRY. order that Mo
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126 ARAB TEMPERANCE. consist in now
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128 CROCODILES. have not a man in o
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130 A MEETING. are discussing a bot
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132 ARAB FILIAL AFFECTION. by Moham
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134 A RIDE. and chocolate bonbons,
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136 THE GHAWAZEE. that nothing is t
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138 THE GHAWAZEE. large glass of th
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1 40 LUXOR. necessary halt anywhere
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142 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. suddenly excla
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144 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. capital, a pha
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146 EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. read the
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148 AN ANTIQUARY. liar to old Egypt
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150 ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. chest, or som
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152 TEMPLE OF ESNEH. the French car
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1 54 DISENCHANTMENT. There, my firs
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156 A SHOAL OF CROCODILES. near the
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158 PASSING GLIMPSES. quarries of H
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160 ES-SOIIAN. allowed us the optio
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162 DESERT CEMETERY. cracked throug
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164 MIXED POPULATION. produces a do
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166 ELEPHANTINA. This was a reasoni
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168 THE FIRST CATARACT. were demoli
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. pelago of g
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172 THE FIRST CATARACT. But his unr
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174 THE FIRST CATARACT. river, swam
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170 THE FIRST CATARACT. formidable
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178 REIS HASSAN. empty our boat of
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180 SUCCESS. crew on board, beaded
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182 SLAVE-BOAT. under the escort of
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184 PROGRESS UP THE RIVER. CHAPTER
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186 KOROSKO. of Nubia, and this abr
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188 COURSE OF THE NILE. obstacles o
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190 A BATTLE-ROYAL. every year take
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192 IBRIM. the aggressions of the E
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194 NATURAL PYRAMIDS. mous wigs. Th
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196 THE COURBAIRAM. the whole of th
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198 ROCK OF ABOUSIR. alacrity when
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200 LIVRE DES VOYAGEURS. facilitate
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202 NIGHT SCENE. part of the deck r
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204 GHEBEL ADDEH. CHAPTER X. GHEBEL
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20G TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. and curio
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208 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. be what w
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210 TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. first pla
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 211 and hiero
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TEMPLES OF IBSAMBOUL. 213 pillars,
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DERR. 215 stone of tlie same date a
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A NUBIAN PALACE. 217 his Court at D
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A NUBIAN PRINCE. 219 personage more
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 221 woven in diffe
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A NUBIAN HAREEM. 223 ter at hand I
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NUBIAN BALLET. 225 CHAPTER XI. NUBI
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OSTRICH EGGS. 227 moment when you s
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ABABDE ARABS. 220 year perished in
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WADY SEBOOA. 231 tion, although of
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SECOND EDITIONS OF TEMPLES. 233 tho
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ghirschjI: housseyn. 235 in Freysch
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BANDOUR. 237 ing such neat, clean l
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THE VENDETTA. 239 Sulieman and Ali
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RAHABA. 241 going, and has never sp
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KALABSCIII. 243 the quantities of b
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THE GOD MALOULI. 245 his mother (th
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BET-OUALLY. 247 scope of my compreh
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PHIL^. 249 CHAPTER XII. PIIILiE.—
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RUINS. 251 preserve inviolate the i
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TEMPLE OF ISIS. 253 of the Ptolemie
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PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA. 255 been; bu
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PHARAOH'S BED. 257 same materials,
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RENCONTRE. 259 of them shortly afte
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ANOTHER RENCONTRE. 261 sailing. All
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ROOM OMBOS. 263 CHAPTER XIII. KOOM
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GHEBEL SILSILIS. 265 laces. There a
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TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 267 ceeded one ano
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VIEW. 269 course to the tutelary de
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TOMBS. 271 and habits of the severa
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SOFIA. 273 which the Eastern dancin
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SOFIA. 275 dress is the prettiest p
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TALLYHO ! 277 had been warned to re
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CHRISTMAS CHEER. 279 liini to hear
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 281 partook of co
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THE VOCAL MEMNON. 283 the statue of
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PHARAONIC ARCHITECTURE. 285 years b
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THE RHAMESSEIUM. 287 theon, and eit
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TOMBS. 289 bowels of the calcareous
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THE ASSi^SSIEF. 291 which they brok
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RELICS. 293 me out of those sepulch
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BIBAN EL MOLUK. 295 SO utterly barr
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THE HALL OF BEAUTY. 297 the walls a
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THE HARPERS. 299 a number of small
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AMULETS. 301 system demonstrating t
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KARNAK, 303 CHAPTER XV. KARNAK. HYP
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 305 nades, iie
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HYPOSTYLE OF KARNAK. 307 tecture su
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AVENUES OF SPHINXES. 309 repose and
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THE PERSIAN CONQUEST. 311 they shou
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REFLECTIONS. 313 ing mouths of mumm
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TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 315 CHAPTER XVI
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CLEOPATRA. 317 lishments that some
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MOHAMMED ALL 319 considerable exten
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MOHAMMED ALT. 321 interior of the s
Page 347 and 348: SEID HUSSEYN. 323 morrow was to be
Page 349 and 350: THE HAREEM. 325 hemet, the East Ind
Page 351 and 352: THE KADUN. 327 less bundle of cloth
Page 353 and 354: AMUSEMENTS. 329 ever, that I am goi
Page 355 and 356: TURKISH DINNER. 331 manner ; and no
Page 357 and 358: TURKISH DINNER. 333 and when at las
Page 359 and 360: TURKISH DINNER. 335 Thus terminated
Page 361 and 362: VISITS. 837 Madame B— , and not o
Page 363 and 364: SHEIKH HARIDI. 339 that this rugged
Page 365 and 366: THE pasha's donkeys. 341 and, for m
Page 367 and 368: THE BASTINADO. 343 depart; a favour
Page 369 and 370: SELIM PASHA. 845 do not vouch for t
Page 371 and 372: ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 347 residence
Page 373 and 374: ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 349 that she
Page 375 and 376: ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 351 her, she
Page 377 and 378: ROMANCE OF REAL LIFE. 353 born, and
Page 379 and 380: DitNOUEMENT. 355 Bey in progress of
Page 381 and 382: NILE VOYAGERS. 357 containing the B
Page 383 and 384: PUFF ANTICIPATORY. 359 of the Nile,
Page 385 and 386: ! BENI HASSAN. 3G1 the enemy under
Page 387 and 388: PAINTINGS. 363 with the Egyptians i
Page 389 and 390: BEDRECHEIN. 365 is at Beni Hassan,
Page 391 and 392: COLOSSAL STATUE. 3G7 statue of Rhan
Page 393 and 394: IBIS MUMMIES. 309 on the spot, to s
Page 395 and 396: SARCOPHAGUS. 371 lid is carved like
Page 397: OUR CREW. 373 boat with eighteen Ar
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