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A pilgrimage to the temples and tombs of Egypt, Nubia, and ...

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TEMPLE OF LUXOR. 143<br />

phics around us;— <strong>the</strong>re, a crouching woman<br />

twitched our garments as her outstretched h<strong>and</strong><br />

spoke eloquently <strong>of</strong> her wants ;—<strong>and</strong> all fraterniz-<br />

ing <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> greatest apparent harmony,<br />

<strong>and</strong> enjoying <strong>the</strong> same degree <strong>of</strong> freedom, man<br />

<strong>and</strong> brute alike, in <strong>the</strong> most wretched attempt<br />

at human habitations which I ever yet beheld.<br />

Such is <strong>the</strong> distracting picture that presents itself<br />

in <strong>the</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> this once proud sanctuary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Pharaohs.<br />

The gigantic colonnade which we had beheld<br />

from <strong>the</strong> river consists in a double row <strong>of</strong> seven<br />

columns each, eleven feet <strong>and</strong> a half in diameter,<br />

covered with hieroglyphics <strong>and</strong> surmounted by<br />

capitals representing <strong>the</strong> leafy summit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

palm-tree. The quantity <strong>of</strong> s<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> rubbish<br />

which more than a thous<strong>and</strong> years <strong>of</strong> ab<strong>and</strong>on-<br />

ment has accumulated round <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />

pillars, has raised <strong>the</strong> level <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil <strong>to</strong> about<br />

one half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir original height. This very much<br />

detracts from <strong>the</strong> harmony <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir appearance,<br />

for <strong>the</strong>y are now not sufficiently l<strong>of</strong>ty for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bulk ; but it is easy <strong>to</strong> imagine what must have<br />

been <strong>the</strong> noble symmetry <strong>of</strong> those columns when,<br />

free from <strong>the</strong> degrading encroachments which<br />

time <strong>and</strong> neglect had ga<strong>the</strong>red round <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

s<strong>to</strong>od proudly forth, unobstructed from base <strong>to</strong>

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