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The boy travellers in the Far East : adventures of two youths ... - Library

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348<br />

THE BOY TRAVELLERS.<br />

follows and captures tlie rnnaway, punish<strong>in</strong>g li<strong>in</strong>i soundly for liis niiscon-<br />

duct. Wlienever a bird catches a fish and br<strong>in</strong>gs it to <strong>the</strong> raft, he is re-<br />

warded with a mouthful <strong>of</strong> food. In this way he soon learns to associate<br />

his success ^vith someth<strong>in</strong>g to eat ; and a cormorant that has been well<br />

tra<strong>in</strong>ed has a good deal <strong>of</strong> fidelity <strong>in</strong> his comj)osition. I am uncerta<strong>in</strong><br />

which to admire most, <strong>the</strong> dexterity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fisherman <strong>in</strong> handl<strong>in</strong>g his raft,<br />

or <strong>the</strong> perseverance and celerity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cormorants."<br />

On her arrival at Han-kow, <strong>the</strong> steamer was tied up to <strong>the</strong> bank <strong>in</strong> front<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city occupied by <strong>the</strong> foreigners. Ilan-kow is on a<br />

broad tongue <strong>of</strong> land at <strong>the</strong> junction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ilan with <strong>the</strong> Yang-tse. On<br />

<strong>the</strong> opjiosite side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ilan is <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Han-yang, and over on <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Yang-tse is Wo-chang. Here is <strong>the</strong> brief description<br />

given by <strong>the</strong> Doctor <strong>in</strong> a letter to friends at home :<br />

"A hill between IIan-ki;)W and Ilan-yang rises about six hundred<br />

feet, and affords one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>est views <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, and, <strong>in</strong> some re-<br />

spects, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most remarkable. We climbed <strong>the</strong>re yesterday a little<br />

Ijefore sunset, and rema<strong>in</strong>ed as long as <strong>the</strong> fad<strong>in</strong>g daylight and <strong>the</strong> exigen-<br />

cies <strong>of</strong> our return permitted. At our feet lay <strong>the</strong> Yang-tse, roll<strong>in</strong>g tow-<br />

ards <strong>the</strong> sea after its junction with <strong>the</strong> Ilan, which we could trace afar,<br />

like a ribbon <strong>of</strong> silver w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong> green pla<strong>in</strong>. Away to <strong>the</strong><br />

west was a range <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s, lighted l)y tlie sett<strong>in</strong>g snn, and overhung<br />

with golden and purple clouds ; while to <strong>the</strong> south was an undulat<strong>in</strong>g-<br />

country, whose foregi'ound was filled with <strong>the</strong> walled city <strong>of</strong> Wo-chang.<br />

<strong>The</strong> crenelated walls enclose an enormous sjiace, much <strong>of</strong> which is so des-<br />

olate that foreigners are accustomed to hunt pheasants and hares with<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> limits. <strong>The</strong>y say that at one time all this space was covered with<br />

build<strong>in</strong>gs, and that <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs were crowded with occupants. <strong>The</strong><br />

three cities suffered terribly dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> rebellion, and more than three<br />

fourths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir edifices were levelled. Look<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> hill, it is easy<br />

to see <strong>the</strong> traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> destruction, although twenty years have passed<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>surrection was suppressed. <strong>The</strong> populatiou <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three cities<br />

was said to have been foui' or five millions; but, even after mak<strong>in</strong>g allow-<br />

ance for <strong>the</strong> density with which Ch<strong>in</strong>ese cities are crowded, I should th<strong>in</strong>k<br />

those figures were too high. However, <strong>the</strong>re is no doubt that it was \'ery<br />

great, and probably nuiro people lived here than on any similar area any-<br />

where else <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world."'<br />

Ilan-kow is a great centre <strong>of</strong> trade. Frequently <strong>the</strong> mouth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ilan<br />

is so crowded with junks that <strong>the</strong> river is entirely covered, and you may<br />

walk for hours by merely stejip<strong>in</strong>g froiu one boat to ano<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> u]iper<br />

Yang-tse and <strong>the</strong> Ilan ijriug down laig'o (pu<strong>in</strong>tities <strong>of</strong> tea, fui's, sillc, wax.

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