L E T T E R S

16simply further proof that freshness depends less on our circumstances than itdoes on us.In Gelnhansen it hardly seemed like fall. The sun was shining as thesouthern range of the Hessian hills came into view. For a few krauzers I hadmy first taste of the not very elegant fruit of their vineyards.November 14 - I arrived in Frankfurt-am-Main. Since I had no place toturn, I sought lodging at the local inn. Had I not been in the capital of politeand formal speech, I would have said: "To the devil with this Frankfurt hoteland its host!" For, I ask you, is it right to charge more than 3 ducats for a room,linen, breakfast and table d'hote dinner plus tea in the evening for a stay ofjust two days? What could I do? I had to pay. Alas the French border is not faroff. At least I have the hope that I will soon arrive at my destination. Just ashort while now and I will have finished with the discomforts of riding in acoach, and the extortion of innkeepers. I left Frankfurt on the 16 th . I passedthrough Moguncia at night. The Rhine is not everywhere as great as I hadimagined. Apparently the Wisła is wider. In Sarbrück we made our firstcontact with the custom officials and the legions of border guards who repeattheir unpleasant forays every few miles. Like the true enemies of free trade andzealous servants of the exchequer that they are they literally turned a traveler'sbaggage inside out. Apparently they were less concerned about the welfare ofthe public treasury than they were about lining their own pockets [about howmuch they could pocket by holding their hands out constantly]. However, Icould show myself as insensitive as a rock to their greedy glances andoutstretched hands, for my heart was not in sympathy with their greed, that is, Ihad no contraband. As we moved farther from Germany and deeper intoFrance, the contrast with everything we had seen thus far was more noticeable.The lively, merry and talkative French character seems to pour over ontoeverything around them, and affects everyone who comes in contact withthem. All you have to do is look at them, and already you become a bit of a