Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

Bleed the brake lines in this order:
Cars without ABS and 1988 or later models with ABS:
LR, RR, RF, LF.
Cars with ABS up to and including 1987:
use the reverse sequence: LF, RF, LR, RR.
On Volvo models with 2 bleeder screws (upper and lower) on the front calipers, use upper nipple.
On Volvo models with 3 bleeder screws on the front calipers, open all bleeder screws simultaneously.
Highly recommended: use a pressure bleeder as noted below at Brake Pressure Bleeder
[Inquiry:] I've never bled calipers that had TWO bleeder valves --- What is the bleeding order? Is is special
for the 740 wagon? It is a 91 and it has ATE on the rear, no problem, but dual Girling calipers (?) vented
rotors on the front w/ two bleeders ea. The Chilton manual is not helpful with the dual system. I can't find
any other repair manual for the 740. [Response: Steve Seekins] An interesting dilemma - the manuals vary
on the correct bleed sequence. According to some, when you have an inner and outer bleed screw on a
caliper, you should bleed the outer first, then the inner, however, my engineering sense would tell me to do
the inner (closest to the MC first, then the outer. That way no old fluid or air would get into the outer after
bleeding it. In any event, I suspect that it is not critical, and I always recommend going around twice - first
time until all air/old fluid is out of system, second time to check for any air. Expect to take about 1.5 quarts for
a complete system flush. On the non-ABS systems, it is pretty clear that the LR is first, but on the ABS
systems, manual says to do the fronts first, then the rears. [Editor's Note: when bleeding, use the uppermost
nipple to expel any air. When flushing fluid, use the lower nipple, then close and check the upper nipple for
any trapped air. See Brake Fluid Flushing Procedures]
ABS-Equipped Cars: See Brake Fluid Bleeding/Flushing Procedures for Cars with ABS
Rusted Bleed Screws: Tips for Removal. [Tip from iadr/Cliff Pope] Here is a tip that's saved me a couple
times when removing screws that the P.O. has not thought to lubricate- take a small ball peen hammer and
give the bleeder screws the hardest hit you can without mushrooming the tip where the fluid comes out. To
clarify, pretend you are diving them into the hole they are threaded into: don't hit them sideways. This seems
to loosen the rust on the threads. Once you get it moving even a fraction, you have done it. Move it
cautiously back and fro, until it will screw freely. Needless to say, try using PBlaster penetrant and a good sixpoint
socket before going to extremes. Just be aware that too much torque can break off the hollow screw. If
you snap it off you are in real trouble. I have never succeeded in extracting a broken one, so you will need a
new caliper. ]
[More Tips from Motor Magazine] Penetrating oil has a better chance of being effective in loosening a seized
bleeder if you wire-brush rust/scale away from the caliper's bleeder bore before applying it. Be sparing,
though. You don't want petroleum-based penetrants contaminating brake fluid. Also, filling the bore in the
bleeder itself with a snug-fitting drill bit helps reinforce the bleeder against twisting forces as you try to
unscrew it. We don't recommend heating the caliper casting with your torch to loosen seized bleeders; the
heat may not just boil away brake fluid, it may damage seals or boots. Keeping the bleeder capped definitely
helps prevent seizing; vacuum caps often make acceptable substitutes if actual bleeder caps are
unavailable.
Master Cylinder Bleeding. If you need to bench bleed a rebuilt master cylinder, see Rob Bareiss' simple
bench bleeder tool made from lengths of brake line.
Brake Pressure Bleeder.