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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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tree mechanic with a complete set of hand tools. If you're unsure of your<br />

experience level or tool crib, have the job done professionally. Ensure that the<br />

sub-assembly is completely cleaned and dried be<strong>for</strong>e disassembly as FI<br />

systems do not react well to ingested dirt. It will require <strong>Volvo</strong> PN 1389562-8.<br />

While you're replacing filters, don't <strong>for</strong>get the air filter -- you engine will always<br />

run better with a new one of these! Again, a bit of basic maintenance that<br />

should never be skipped.<br />

5. If you lack a fuel pressure gauge capable of reading fuel pressure to at least<br />

400 kpa and lacking the proper fittings, true troubleshooting will be difficult.<br />

Your car's LH system is supposed to operate at a constant 300 kpa.<br />

6. Lacking the proper diagnostic equipment, your only solution will be to replace<br />

each component until the problem is solved. I won't list all of the possible<br />

problem components as most situations are traced back to either the main fuel<br />

pump or the pressure regulator. Use a long piece of hose to listen <strong>for</strong> the main<br />

fuel pump as the car is being cranked. If you cannot hear the fuel pump turn,<br />

check the voltage using a VOM.<br />

7. If all is well, skip to the fuel pressure regulator. Replace the unit with <strong>Volvo</strong> PN<br />

1389564-4, but may also be replaced by Bendix PN 4088942-0001.<br />

8. If the car now runs, but frequently requires long periods of cranking to start,<br />

then suspect the check valve in the fuel pump. The check valve is a threaded<br />

in-line valve that maintains line pressure between 200-300 kpa after the engine<br />

is shut off.<br />

9. If the car still does not start, check the fuel pump relay. If in doubt, replace it<br />

with <strong>Volvo</strong> PN 3523608-3.<br />

10. If the car will not re-start while warm, check the radio suppression relay and the<br />

rpm sensor (LH2.4) or Hall sensor (LH 2.2).<br />

11. If the car stalls while hot, check the ignition power stage amplifier which is<br />

cooled through body contact.<br />

12. Regina-Equipped Cars: Check as well the coil pack and MAP sensor.<br />

13. Conclusion. The beauty in the approach listed is that you first complete the<br />

basic maintenance required; car's just won't run well without regular<br />

maintenance! Second, you're using a rudimentary tool (the hose) to check <strong>for</strong><br />

fuel pump operation. That's important since the fuel pump is a very expensive<br />

piece of gear that you would not really wish to replace unless it is dead. Third,<br />

there's some merit in repair by replacement, especially if you lack the proper<br />

fuel system diagnostic equipment. The pressure regulator is about $40 buck<br />

and, with age, will eventually die anyway. So replacing it just saves you being<br />

stranded at some point in time. Finally, the pump relay is the next most likely<br />

culprit. [Editor's Note: See the notes below about rpm or Hall sensor and radio<br />

suppression relays; these can also be frequent culprits.]<br />

14. Hope this helps. Remember the merits of maintenance be<strong>for</strong>e trying to solve<br />

any recurring problem.

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