10.12.2012 Views

Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Abbreviations:<br />

or Won't Turn<br />

AMM Air Mass Meter<br />

ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor<br />

ECU Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)<br />

FI Fuel Injection<br />

FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator<br />

IAC Idle Air Control solenoid valve<br />

TB Throttle Body<br />

TPS Throttle Position Sensor<br />

VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor<br />

<strong>Maintenance</strong>, Plugs, Cap, Wires:<br />

Spark Plug Notes. See Removing Spark Plugs, Re-Threading Spark Plug Holes, and Installing Spark Plugs <strong>for</strong> more<br />

in<strong>for</strong>mation.<br />

Spark Tester. [tip from Don Foster:] To test whether your plugs are receiving a spark impulse, try this. It's dumb<br />

simple and works flawlessly. How to build:<br />

Go to your electronic junkbox, or the local electronics workshop, or to Radio Shack. Get:<br />

A neon bulb, NE-2<br />

About 15' of light-gauge stranded wire (insulated, of course)<br />

An alligator clip<br />

A collection of heat shrink tubing<br />

Connect a 3-4' piece of wire to one lead of the neon bulb. Insulate the solder connection<br />

with heat shrink. Attach the alligator clip to the other end of the wire. This is your GROUND WIRE. Connect a 10-12'<br />

piece of wire to the other lead of the neon bulb. Insulate the connection with shrink tubing. This is your ANTENNA<br />

WIRE. I like to put a larger (diameter) piece of shrink tubing over the bottom part of the bulb, including the other shrink<br />

tubing <strong>for</strong> mechanical strength.<br />

How to use:<br />

Find a convenient, out-of-the-way location <strong>for</strong> the bulb (preferably out of the light). Connect the ground clip to metal<br />

chassis. Feed the "antenna wire" through the firewall and over the engine. Take pains tosecure it away from moving<br />

stuff, like the fan. Wrap the "antenna" around one plug wire about 15 times, and tie the end of the wire back over<br />

itself. DO NOT electrically connect the "antenna" to the plug wire or to anything else. It picks up the electrical pulses by<br />

induction (hence the term "antenna").<br />

Anytime there is a spark pulse in the wire, the neon bulb will flash -- dimly, but still flash. This does nothing to the<br />

effectiveness of the ignition system, so can be left there <strong>for</strong> a month or a year. When the engine's running, the bulb will<br />

flicker. When you're cranking the engine on a cold, rainy morning, you can watch to see if there's spark. If you have a<br />

similar test light attached to the fuel pump, you can see if the pump's powered.<br />

Cap and Rotor. B2XX engines come with rear-mounted distributors (between the valve cover and the firewall) and<br />

block-mounted distributors as in the photo to the right. The latter are prevalent on Rex-Regina powered cars, mostly 94<br />

or 95 vintage.<br />

B230 Engines. [How do I remove my cap and rotor: it appears to be right next<br />

to the firewall? [Response: Various] Carefully pull off the spark plug wires<br />

from the cap. They will be stuck due to heat, so use a gently twisting and<br />

pulling motion on the boots. You may need to pry up a little on the boots t

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!