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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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this. Then check the installation with a mirror and flashlight, all around. Be sure to pre-lube the<br />

seal surface where it contacts the shaft be<strong>for</strong>e assembly. A <strong>Volvo</strong> tech told me to use white<br />

lithium grease to fill the small recess of the shaft contact area. Also do not hammer the seal in<br />

as the jolts can dislodge the spring causing a leak. [Response: Dick Riess] <strong>Volvo</strong> even went so<br />

far as to advise a wait of 20 minutes to make certain they were in ok as they can flip the seal lip.<br />

I use some Vaseline on my seal lips and use an old seal backwards to tap on to insert new seal.<br />

Don’t drive new seal all the way in either. Would clean the crank surface with some of that 3M<br />

Scotchbrite of or a strip of fine emory papers like they use to polish cranks. [Editor’s note: use<br />

the less abrasive Scotchbrite blue]. [Response: Ivan K] To prevent the seal spring from getting<br />

out of position during installation, pack the area around it with grease. [Response:] When<br />

punting the cam oil seal, I always put a bit of red RTV/Permatex on these seals between the<br />

cylinder head and bearing cap <strong>for</strong> insurance... [Editor's Note: See Cam Seal Replacement]<br />

Also use sealant on the valve cover gasket, where it has a sharp bend around the front bearing<br />

cap. If You Are a 240 Owner Reading This: The only thing you have to worry about that most<br />

700/900 owners don't is maintaining the correct intermediate shaft timing, because the<br />

distributor is driven off the intermediate shaft on the 240 versus the back end of the camshaft <strong>for</strong><br />

most 700/900s. Crank Seal Leaks After Installation.<br />

[Problem:] I could kick myself! I just checked my front main crank seal I replaced a week ago!<br />

After running the car <strong>for</strong> a short bit, I noticed leakage at the bottom of the crank housing!<br />

Ahhhhgg! I know when I put the seal in it was flush to the housing and felt even all the way<br />

around! I have heard you should seat them deeper when replacing one - but it looked good and<br />

I did not have the proper seal tool to do the job, plus I afraid to seat it to deep and get a leak that<br />

way. I used a giant 3/4 socket to seat it in the past. But this time I didn't have it around! I bet I<br />

didn't seat it far enough or messed up the spring! [Suggestions:] If it leaks after installation, you<br />

probably flipped your seal lip; I have done it more than once. [More:] Something I did on mine<br />

when I replaced it was coat it thoroughly with petroleum jelly. I had been warned that the seal<br />

can be messed up by installing it "dry". Also, are you sure it's straight? If it is cocked at an<br />

angle, it will leak. Also, You may have popped out the spring! If you pounded the seal the spring<br />

can pop out. Check it! If you didn't buy an original seal, check the rotation mark. They make<br />

seals <strong>for</strong> both rotation directions. [Eventual solution:] Spring had popped out. [Jon Scheetz] : If<br />

you are looking <strong>for</strong> an oil leak that appears to be a shaft seal on the front of the engine, be sure<br />

to check the security of the bolts holding the metal crank seal carrier cover on the lower front of<br />

the engine block. On my 1995 940, I had replaced all the shaft seals when I renewed the timing<br />

belt only to have the leak return almost immediately. When I went back in and checked the front<br />

cover bolts, a couple were barely finger tight. I did not trust a gasket that had leaked to seal<br />

again by simply tightening the bolts. So I carefully removed the front cover, cleaned the block<br />

and renewed the gasket. The routing of the engine wiring complicates removing the front cover<br />

but it can be done: loosen/remove all the wiring attachments and wiggle. The bottom of the front<br />

cover also mates with the oil pan. I cleaned the pan gasket surface with solvent and applied a<br />

sealant be<strong>for</strong>e replacing the front cover. This fixed my leaks. I now recheck these bolts when<br />

ever I'm in to do the timing belt but have not had a recurrence.<br />

Front Cam Seal Replacement. Tools:[Tip from Zippy] The latest seal installer <strong>for</strong> the cam and<br />

intermediate shaft seals is nylon and steel (<strong>Volvo</strong> special tool 9995025) and I don't see how

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